Cascade Crew

[Magman]

My oil leak didn't grow overnight but still, the oil pan gasket needs to be changed. I ordered it today along with a M-55 pump, 55-S screen, IS-55E intermediate shaft and a MRG-26 spring. Got the instructions to get the pan off from TGO and it sounds simple enough; remove starter, dist, y-pipe, TC cover, and motor mount bolts. Place balancer so mark points to the floor, lift motor with a jack and a 2x4 on the balancer or crank pulley enough to get the pan out. Brace motor, so you dont break any fingers and remove pan.

While I have the pan off is there anything else I should check for? Like torque on rods/mains? I plan to re-install the gasket with a light coat of permatex (black) on both sides of gasket and a bit extra in the corners.

Decided to work on the interior today, pulled seats and console for a carpet shampoo and console repairs. Found a load of garbage and almost $5.00 in change that was down there rattling around. It was a good time to scrub on the plastics too. It's starting to look pretty good! I know, pictures...patience my friends.

[GREG DAVIDSON]

seems like alot to pull apart for an oil pan what engine you have ?

[Dewey316]

[GREG DAVIDSON]

yea i read that then i broke out my chilton book and it pretty much says the same thing dam glad im changing my pan gasket while it's out of the car

[91RSVert]

I didnt support my motor on the balancer. I wedged a ton of 2x4's in the motor mount area.

But the rest of it sounds good.

[blue89]

Is lifting it off the balancer a great idea? I'd be worried about warping the crank. I've used an engine hoist before and picked the engine up that way.

[redlava]

I have taken off the oil pan multiple times while jacking it up on the harmonic balancer. You just need to make sure that crank is sitting so that the 1,2 pistons are close to the top of the cylinders. This will give you the clearance to take the oil pan off while getting it past the k member. I would defenatly recomend putting rtv on both sides of the gasket.

[Quasi-Traction]

I'm about to do the same thing, but I have new heads going on and a bunch of other stuff, so pulling the motor and putting it on the stand seems more justified.

Good luck Tim. Hope everything turns out leak-free.

[Twilightoptics]

If you're doing the oil pump Tim, you need to pull the engine. Otherwise you're not going to be able to set the pickup tube to the right clearance on the pan. Plus you'll want to buy a pickup retaining bracket AND or weld the pickup to the pump.

[Schultzy89GTA]

My L98 failed due to the oil pickup tube falling out from the pump into the oil pan. Bearings have a much harder time getting oil when this happens .

[Magman]

Guess I'm not seeing the whole picture... Figured I'd pull the old pump, lay it next to the new pump and get close to the correct height while out of the motor. Install new pump with pickup/screen, place modeling clay on bottom of screen housing or bottom of pan, install dry gasket and set oil pan in place, tighten a few pan bolts, remove and check height of modeling clay for proper clearance. Adjust as necessary and tack weld the pickup to the pump once good clearance has been established.

Am I missing something? The pump drive shaft will be held in place by the pump, I may have to tack weld the pickup tube on the "check" step but thats fine. I'd rather do it twice now than have it fail cause I did it wrong.

I've never done this in the car so If I'm out to lunch, let me know. I don't see why this wouldn't work? A little longer to assemble, check clearance, remove, adjust, then re-assemble, but it will be right.

Thanks guys!

[blue89]

I adjust mine to close and then try to put the pan on. Hits pan = move up, doesn't hit pan = move down.