Cascade Crew

Xecris · Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 4:53 pm Post subject: New project

Its been a while since I've posted here, been lurking when I've had free time. Don't know who all remembers my 91 RS, think last I left off I was swapping through transmissions trying to get one with all the gears in working order.

Anyhow, work has been keeping me incredibly busy, and I've been saving up for some more stuff for the 'maro.

I've finally started tearing down my 454 (78k original miles), and hoping I don't have to do a lot of machine work to it. It is out of my '78 Chevy camper special that was bought new by an old Navy vet. It was used almost exclusively for hauling his camper trailer and dump runs. Truck was very very well taken car of. Anyone have any idea what kind of gearing the '78 camper special 2WDs came with in the rear?

I am taking the SBC out of my Camaro and putting it into truck, keeping the TH400 with the truck.

I am buying a TH350 with transbrake and man. valvebody for the Camaro, but at the moment I am unsure what stall to run in the TC. Car isn't going to be a daily driver, and after helping a friend get his '70 Dart Swinger going again, I fell in love with manual valvebody transmissions.

Probably going to get some better heads for the truck, new cam and timing is also going in. I believe I need a Chevelle BBC oilpan for the swap, and Patriot swap headers, unless someone has a better idea for the headers.

That said, with the car going under the knife, going to have a complete AC setup and good working 700r4 for sale if anyone is going to want those. AC in Washington is probably going to be a hard sell. Serp. setup for a '91 is also on the 'go away' list.

Anyone that has done the BBC swap got any advice for someone about to embark on this journey? I've been to TGO and researching it the past few weeks when time has allowed, figure I'd hop back in here and make another garage posting.

I'll even messy up the board with some Mopar pics.

Thanks in advance,

chevymad · Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 5:14 pm Post subject:

Camper special should have been 3.73 gears. I've taken 3 apart.. all were 3.73s. Check the casting #s on the heads, in the 70s trucks got some very very good oval port heads. 781 is a good #. Only real reason to even change would be to go aluminum to save weight. What 70s truck 454 did not have was compression.. 7.9:1. Put in some different pistons and its a whole new animal. You have a very good chance of not needing any machine work. The motor I put together had alot more miles with hours of idle time and I was still able to use a set of standard pistons with domes to get the compression up. Stock valves will be "small" truck valves.. if you have money you can have those changed to 2.19/1.77s . The small valves were only 2.06 intakes.

Xecris · Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 8:53 pm Post subject:

I've gotten the motor out of my Camaro and will be putting it into the truck tomorrow. I know I don't want to keep the AC stuff (clearance and lack of a way to mount compressor to BB). Is it possible to remove the system intact? I have the compressor in the car still, bungee'd into where the battery was. I haven't broken any of the lines and want to avoid it, since the whole system was updated to 134, and is all filled up.

Do people even buy AC stuff?

chevymad · Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:26 pm Post subject:

You might as well crack the lines if you arent going to use it. There's no way someone would want to install it complete like that. Probably very little demand for a/c, though I kept mine.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:30 pm Post subject:

iansane · Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:06 pm Post subject:

iansane · Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:08 pm Post subject:

Xecris · Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 5:12 pm Post subject:

Going to be putting the AC stuff into my other 'maro, and swap over the regular heater box thing. Figure it wouldn't be too hard to recharge it down the road. From all the reading I did for the swap, just seems to be a headache to keep the AC on the firewall. And I have T-tops, and have only used the AC once since I've purchased the car.

Today I got the smallblock and trans. over into the truck, just have to finish plumbing it up and try to come up with the right power steering line for the truck. The big block used a completely different pressure hose, hoping that I can buy the hose for the truck, just in the 350 flavor. Should be the same steering box between a 350 and 454 truck of the same year, correct?

Going to be tearing down the big block next weekend, see what kind of heads and whatnot I have. Hoping to have everything done by mid-July, trying not to rush it. Overtime at work is helping the second case Smile

. Truck looks funny with a serpentine setup in it, too.

I will be updating this thread whenever I have progress. Paint and hiding the wire harnesses is next on the agenda. Black with dark red flake in the clear Cool

chevymad · Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:31 pm Post subject:

The maro ps pump may be a metric fitting, while your truck will be a standard. Not sure if theres a conversion or if you'll have to have something made.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:37 pm Post subject:

Williams Oil Filter can make you one easily, or you can just swap the pumps out (what I did last time Wink

).

RSFreak · Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:32 pm Post subject:

Xecris · Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:15 pm Post subject:

Motor cleaned up pretty nicely, went a bit more over budget than I had anticipated, but that is part of the hobby, I suppose. Hi Perf block, 2bolt main, 781 large oval port heads. Went with an Edelbrock 750cfm carb, holley strip dominator intake (all I had on hand, may kick myself for that down the road), new cam/lifters, had a friend check the rest of the stuff out. Block was rebuilt relatively recently he said, no cylinder ring, burned spots, everything was clean as a whistle when I cracked it apart. Going with the patriot h8012 headers and crossing my fingers it isn't going to be a pain to get those in. Just waiting for a deal on a TH350 and I should be set! Anyway, figured I would update for the couple friends I made here. Been busy dealing with some life stuff, but that isn't the subject here Smile

.

Hoping this motor breathes a little life into the old 'maro.

Oh yea, someone mentioned the valves earlier. I mic'd these out, and they were the 2.18 or 2.2 or whatever the larger one was, I don't think I could get larger ones in there without them touching.

Xecris · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:59 pm Post subject:

Got her up and running, but I don't think the stock radiator is going to keep up with the motor. Idling in the driveway with electric fan on, temp will slowly rise to over 220*. Driving around town will make no difference in that, jus kinda hovers a bit over 220. I have a 180* thermostat in it, new radiator, new hoses.

I also had to set the timing to 14deg advanced, otherwise it will pop and backfire through the intake if I poke at the throttle. My book says the BB needs to be down at 8, and it will idle there, but backfires like crazy. At 14, it will run the powerband no sweat. No pinging or nothing. Normal?

Other than those two issues and a bit of massaging in the passenger footwell for the header, the swap was incredibly easy. Car definately has some wicked pull, made the Swinger I posted at the top feel like a slug. Thumbs up

Only things I can think of with the temp, other than a new radiator I can't afford for a few weeks, is going with a lower thermostat, and putting antifreeze/coolant in it? It is just water while I was making sure the gaskets aren't leaking, not a fan of watching money pour outta the car. Any ideas?

chevymad · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:18 pm Post subject:

I'd be checking that the balancer hasnt slipped. Sounds like your timing is retarded. That will cause it to run warm as well. Also if you have a performance cam you'll want more like 15-20* initial timing.. but will need to limit your total timing. Probably no more then 38* total. Many bigblocks like to be locked out. Just lock the mechanical advance so it doesnt move and set the timing to total.

Anyway, find tdc and check your balancers timing mark. I'm betting its not right. If it's not its time for a new balancer before that one blows apart.

Xecris · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:36 pm Post subject:

The balancer is brand new, and was at dead 0 on the timing tab when I lined up the gear drive (dot to dot), I triple checked all of that and then some, didn't move anything before I installed timing cover, and then slid balancer on. I hadn't even thought of the timing making it run warm, it is a performance cam (largest street cam comp cams had, friend's dad suggested it to go along with new trans/TC). I can try bumping the timing up a bit more.

Xecris · Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:41 pm Post subject:

Jus a couple more pics. Getting a taurus dual fan setup tomorrow morning to help things along until I get new radiator. Sensor was bad, popped a new one in and it sits around 220* at the high end. Still higher than I like. Gonna clean up the wiring and hoses and other odds and ends next weekend, so parked she stays.

RSFreak · Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:01 pm Post subject:

I think all of my 3rdgens ran at around 220*. Shrug

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 8:51 pm Post subject:

That's with a stock-ass t-stat, John. I'm with B, running hot like that sounds like retarded timing. He shouldn't run past 190* with that 180 stat in it.

FWIW if it has a cam in it and some big ol' truck heads on it, it will love itself some timing. I run the mechanical advance on the 390FE from 20*-34*. If I pull it back below 10* before it wont idle.

Xecris · Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 5:17 pm Post subject:

I'll be playing with the timing this week after work, hopefully find a sweet spot for it. I did pull the driver side valve cover off and turn motor til TDC (watching valves move with spark plug removed on no.1), timing mark did line up. around 0. The little driving I did, it did feel like it was still retarded, so I'll take your guys' advice and look there.