Cascade Crew

Outlaw28 · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 12:19 am Post subject:

yeah that im aware of...but other heads were aluminum had screw in studs and bigger valves...they were ok heads im talking about the performer rpm heads...anyways ill do some calling around monday see if i can find a machine shop that will do the work for a reasonable price...found the studs i would need...they are only 20 bucks they are the gmpp lt1/lt4 style ones...according to chevyhighperformance magazine you can use those studs and stick with the self aligning rockers...

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

Outlaw28 · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:03 pm Post subject:

just went threw my other two blogs and you nor anyone else said anything about it...one blog i was asking about cams...was thinking about going the 274 before i was offered to take the cam from guy i bought heads from...and you commented on how street friendly it was and that it goes great with modified vortecs...never said anything else...im not trying to be a jackass i just don't like it when ppl tell me they've told me something and i know they havn't....i do know that its not cheap...everyone has a budget though...and i bet on more then one occasion someone has pushed there budgets lol...it happens...i dont know plenty about this stuff...only what i read...and the little bit of experience ive had working on my car...

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:49 pm Post subject:

It's not our responsability to tell you exactly how what where. You need to do a little research youself and be more open to what we here as a group of lots of experiance have to say if youre going to ask us our opinions.

Outlaw28 · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 4:41 pm Post subject:

i know its not your responsibility...i have been researching...a lot!...its hard to find exactly what you need sometimes though unless you know exactly what your looking for...

im plenty open i just lil frustrated dont mean to take it out on you guys I APOLOGIZE for that...i have been pretty cranky lately...hurt my back really good yesterday and just makes me grouchy cuz i cant do anything for a lil while...so im very sorry if it seams like at times im being stubborn...it runs in the family lol...

i did ask everyone in a previous blog what cam and heads should i go with and put down the info of my motor and heads and cams...no one mentioned i would need to add screw in studs to the vortecs with the cams i had chosen...now from what research i have been doing...what determines if you do need screw in studs is your spring pressure and rates and how much lift...correct??? now i know its better to play it safe and just get them done specially since they are not on the motor...and im ganna go ahead and get them done...but for future reference what usually is the limits of pushed in studs? wish i could turn this deal around and go back and get the other heads...but its to late for that now...these heads can do what i want just going to have to put a lil more into them...they are pushed in studs i double checked that today...Paul i know you are a machinist and work at a shop...about how much you guys charge for machining for screw in studs??? just a rough guess so i know what im looking at for cost wise here...i am going the cam that you suggested in previous thread the lunati voodoo 262...lift on int/exh is .468/.489...im going to stick with the stock rockers for the time being...dont see a reason to upgrade to 1.6's at this time...plus trying to keep costs down...

alloy · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 5:12 pm Post subject:

If you just want screw in studs and not machined for guide plates, you can do the work yourself. There is an inexpensive tool you can get to pull and use as a tapping guide to put shouldered studs in.

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PH&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=POW351300

Outlaw28 · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 5:29 pm Post subject:

thx...chevy mad also showed me a similar tool...what i dont know is...is there a specific depth i have to drill and tap the holes too???

izcain · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:10 pm Post subject:

Ah yes the things that magazine doesn't tell you about ............ J/K

Screw in studs should be done on ANY perf. cam that is in a motor that is going to see some abuse. JMO

There is no specific depth just down enough so that once you tap them the rockers will bottom out.

Maybe the reason why some people don't come out with ideas about cams and things for ya is because you seem like you already know exactly what you are doing when it comes to cam specs and engine assembly.

chevymad · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:15 pm Post subject:

If you use studs with the nut on them you'll need to do some machining. Even without guide plates. If you use the nutless stock replacement type screw in studs.. you'll break them. Those are the ones I snapped 3 or 4 of.

As for depth of the thread, you just tap to the bottom. Its the cutting operation that you have to have set to a certain depth. You want the new stud to come out the same height as the old ones, so you gotta make up for any guide plate and nut.

Outlaw28 · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:08 pm Post subject:

ah ok thx for the info...

izcain like i said lil bit ago...i do read a lot and research i only know what i read and ive only had some experience actually working on the car...ive done a basket top end rebuild...you know replacing gaskets...but thats about it when it comes to the motor...reading can get you a good ways...but does not make up for first hand experience...im one of those ppl i have to fully understand what im getting into before i do it...and i like to know that what im getting into works...in a way it can make me seem like a know it all stubborn hard #$% but by no means am i trying to be that way...lol and your right i read to many magazines i know they tend to exaggerate and also sometimes lie due to fact they are being paid by that manufacture to say good things about their products...but yet they still have plenty of resources to offer when it comes to information...

im going to make a few calls around tomorrow see what a shop will charge...but more then likely i think im going to attack this myself with the assistance of my uncle who has way more knowledge in this field...i would of talked to him but hes been out of town past month and wont be home till end of month...i am still considering running guide plates and standard rockers...but trying to keep costs down so if i do go that route i may just stick with the stock rockers on my current heads until later when i can afford to buy some nice rollers...i do know with guideplates hardened pushrods are required...thx for info

305 302eater · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:41 am Post subject:

Don't mean to barge in here but they did say modified vortecs right? Meaning you will need to get springs and all that good stuff to support the cam. Go fast stuff gets expensive. Its adds up qhick if your goingt o do it right. If you do it cheap though your just going to end up pulling it back apart and you may break something. I kinda thought it to be common knowledge that you will need better springs and all that stuff. At least your finding out now, that way you can prevent wasting your money down the line here on broken parts.

Outlaw28 · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:55 am Post subject:

they are modified vortecs...they are Scoggin-Dickey upgraded vortecs the springs are late model z28 springs and lt4 retainers...all the machine work has been done on them...but they did not get screw in studs...they will be though after highly recommendations of the crew...if you read i believe on first page of blog...the info on springs that are on the heads should be there on page 1 somewhere...and your not barging in more then welcome

Dewey316 · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:56 am Post subject:

The springs with those heads are meant to be used with a close to stock roller cam. There is always the expectation that when you buy a cam, you need to look at the recomended spring by the manufacture. Every cam will list what spring the cam maker says you should use.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:16 am Post subject:

Most of the stud holes don't bottom out, they go into the intake or the lifter valley.

Be sure to use red loctite on the threads and torque them properly.

Best to machine for ARP screw ins and guideplates. Be done with it.

Plus, when "pulling" the factory studs, there is a good chance you'll brake the stud boss offcausing the head to be junk.

When machined, there is a cutter that cuts the boss down and the stud falls right out.

305 302eater · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:18 pm Post subject:

mrpopo573 · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:34 pm Post subject:

Outlaw28 · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:16 pm Post subject:

ok im tired or repeating myself...since ppl do not want to read all the posts in this blog...and they are getting smart about it...

305 - by all means i am not having fun...and im not trying to portray any attitude plz dont assume or you'll piss me off and get one...info you posted as already been posted and replied to if you'd read the hole blog you'd find that out

twilightoptics - thx for the info that was helpful

moderator do me favor close this blog[/quote]