Cascade Crew

[dlp]

I ordered direct from Comp, they had to make it per the specs I mentioned. The guy told me " looks like we have a core instock, should be able to cut it and get it out the door before Christmas. Should be on your door step before New Years day". I told the guy I wouldnt be home, make sure they can drop it without a signature, he said " no problem".

I got a UPS notice in the mail box today with " Signature required" . Should show up at my work tommorow.

[chevymad]

I love that.

We used to have a UPS man that knew where I worked. So he'd just deliver there instead of my house. Thing was he was actually just lazy and didnt want to drive to my house! LOL But it worked for me.

[IROCDave]

FYI, I am dlp. I go by IROCDave on other sites, changing from Comcast to Verizon twice has limited my user names.

This week has SUCKED. My wifes computer wouldnt produce a visual image last Sunday and she freaked out becuase she had 3 assignments due before midnight. Her hardrive wound up in my computer so she could complete the assignment.

My computer bit the dust Monday night. My wife went ballistic, and I was close behind. The U of Pheonix online courses are not cheap and once the bell rings the meter is running. I spent several hours Tuesday downloading patches and updates to the Fujitsu laptop I bought my wife 4 years ago. It hasnt been turned on in two years.

The laptop is up to date now, my wifes computer has a fuctionel video card, a hardrive for my computer is on the road, and a new Dell is on order for my wife.

So, back to what matters. I installed the cam today and one head.

[IROCDave]

Both heads are on, just need to degree the cam Saturday, check for the correct pushrod length, then order pushrods. I hope the cam degrees in properly, if not, the build will take longer. I dont have any offset crank keys and I dont have an adjustable timing chain set.

[Schultzy89GTA]

Cool Dave. Getting closer eh?

Excited much?

-Schultzy

[Dewey316]

Cool Dave, hopefully it degree's OK. I don't know that I would worry if it is retarted by a degree or two, but either way, since you have to still order pushrods, at least if you have to order even a new timing set, you aren't holding yourself up.

[IROCDave]

I hear you, but the way the economy is going, and the tight grip my wife has on the finances, an adjustable timing chain set will set the build back a couple of weeks ( as my 4 year old shoves a stuffed Delmation in my face while typing) ). The weather we have had this week is making things seem worse, cant wait to get this thing back on the road.

[Schultzy89GTA]

I hear ya there. Had a couple of 60 degree days down here this week. Actually took the bike out for a bit on Tuesday. I am jonesing for some sunshine. Now back to our regularly scheduled program (read: rain).



-Schultzy

[IROCDave]

Man, I dont think the PNW is going to get much rain this year. Just hope we dont get record high temps this summer. I lived in Sacramento from 1983 - 1991, learned to dispise 100+ degree sunny days. 115+ degree days REALLY sucked, still remember waking up at 5:00AM for weeks on end with the blazing orange globe shining through the curtains. Just knew it was going to be friggin hot, and that I would burn my left arm on the chrome trim on the drivers door while driving my 74 blazer.

[IROCDave]

Slipped away from the kids party today and checked for the correct pushrod length. Looks like the set I used before will work fine. Set up the degree wheel then had to go visit relatives. The last thing to do before bolting everything back together is degree the cam. Should finish that tommorow.

[izcain]

Sounds like it is all coming together!

How bout some pics of this!

[IROCDave]

Man what a pain in the butt. Should have degreed the cam before installing the heads. The cheapo Summit degree kit just doesnt seem to be able to be postioned in the perfect spot and I dont have a crank nut for the degree wheel. It also didnt come with a bracket to attach the magnetic base to alluminum heads. I am using a chunk of angle iron bolted to the #1 exhaust bolt holes.
Checked the lift tonight, intake measured .574 and exhaust was .577. Cam card shows I lift .568 and E lift .583. My dial indicator has a sticking point in it and trying to set it up perfectly in line with the valve and sitting on the spring retianer is proving to be very difficult, especially with the wide body SS Crower roller rockers.

Word of advise, if your going to degree your cam do it while the heads are off, buy a crank bolt nut that holds the degree wheel on and has a nut on the end for a socket to attach to spin the crank over. Another side note, buy the correct dial indicator that fits in the lifter bore. I took an old roller lifter apart and flipped the plunger upsed down and stacked a couple of washers in it then put the pushrod cup back in. I lost the lifter spring steel keeper ( took them apart 10 years ago, who knows where the clips are now) so I got the cup height close with washers.

[Twilightoptics]

How's it degree out? Seem some off as many as 6º depending on block/chain/etc.

I don't check max lift myself, just make sure the Intake centerline is where it's supposed to be.

[IROCDave]

I set up to check the ICL first. I must have boned it, should have been 108, I came up with 105. The degree wheel kit I have has instructions, said to check ICL first before going forward.

This is my understanding of how to do this.

Set the degree wheel up so that it is accuret with TDC. Set up the dial indicator on the valve spring retianer, preload the dial indicator to more than total valve lift. Turn the engine over clockwise, while watching the dial indicator. Find the highest point of lift, mark the degree wheel. Turn the engine counter clockwise while watching the dial indicator, stop at .050 before max lift, mark the degree wheel. Turn the engine clockwise to .050 past the highest point of lift, mark the degree wheel. Add the two numbers together and divide by 2.

Maybe I am not doing it correctly? I did not go back and confirm that the degree wheel was still on TDC. Need to do that Saturday, then try again.

I hope I dont have to adjust the cam, that would open another can of worms. The ZZ4 blocks are not machined for normal SBC timing chains and I really dont want to have to take a die grinder to the front of the block.

[IROCDave]

Degreed the cam today, see below.

ICL - 107 measured, 108 specd

I duration @ .050 measured - 232 degrees, specd - 224 degrees.
I valve timing @ .050 - measured - open - 9 degrees BTDC, close - 43 degrees ABDC.
I valve timing @ .050 specd - open - 4 degrees BTDC, close 40 degrees ABDC
Total lift measured - 560, specd - .568

E duration @ .050 measured - 237 degrees, specd - 230 degrees.
E valve timing @ .050 - measured - open - 126 degrees , close - 30 degrees.
E valve timing @ .050 specd - open - 51 degrees BBDC, close -1 degrees ATDC
Total lift measured - 571, specd - .583

So, the ICL was within one degree of the spec, intake duration is larger by 8 degrees, starts 5 degrees sooner, and closes 3 degrees later. Total lift is less then specd by .008".
On the exhaust side, duration @ .050 lift is longer than speccd by 7 degrees. Total duration @ .050 lift is 237 degrees, specd is 230 degrees.

It's close to what I ordered, just confirms what I have heard regarding Comp Cams. They come with less lift and more duration than specd.

[chevymad]

I think you said you are measuring at the valve spring retainer? That will work for finding ICL but will not work for finding your duration. You need to measure actual cam lift not cam lift*rocker ratio. So you need to measure at the pushrod end of the rocker or at the actual lifter. This is why your cam is looking bigger then it oughta at the 0.050. The 0.050 point is happening alot sooner when multiplied by 1.5 or 1.6.

[IROCDave]

I tried to call Comp to verify, but they must have been closed. I am not going to go any further with checking the cam specs. It appears close, and honestly if the duaration is in the low 230's I am OK with it.

[chevymad]

I almost mentioned this to you earlier but then saw you were using the ICL method and figured it didnt matter anyway. If you'd been using the intake opening method then it would matter big time.

[IROCDave]

Installed the timing chain cover, oil pan, oil cooler lines, balancer, water pump, rocker arms, pushrods and adjusted the valves.
I forgot which intake gasket set was for the AFR's ( have two sets one for my car and one for my wifes HSR) so I went to the AFR site to find out. The FelPro 1205 intake gasket set that the install instructions advised to use ( and what I purchased) are now not what is recomended by AFR. AFR's website recomends FelPro 1206 gasket set.

Another thing that I noticed was the "NOTICE" on the site to seal and tourqe down the rocker studs. I assumed this was already done from the factory. Dam, now need to do that then readjust the valves.

I am hoping to get the thing running by the end of next weekend.

[Schultzy89GTA]