Cascade Crew

91RSVert · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:52 am Post subject: More head questions

Ok, since I get to re-redo my heads Laughing

I have more questions.

I know its been almost a month. But I had projects being put on hold while car was apart. Had to take care of them before I tackle car again.

I am having problems finding 1004 gaskets in stock local. I see 1003 gaskets. Only difference is the bore. One is 4.166, other is 4.19. How much is that going to throw me off? I thought dude sold me 1004's, but the hand written reciept says 1003?

I am using studs this time. Never used studs before. Will there be a "stop" point when screwing these in or if not paying attention, can I screw these all the way thru? I know I need tuflon on the threads. Says to use something(I forget now) for the upper end when torqing.

Since the drivers side isnt leaking, and I'm installing studs on pass side. Can I remove one bolt at a time, install a stud. Then torque. Is that going to f-up my gasket or heads? (one less 40-50 buck gasket I gotta find/get).

Can I install studs first, then drop head over. Or do I have to install head, then studs? Motor is in car.

chevymad · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 5:50 pm Post subject:

Studs can be a huge pain in the (*^& , especially in the car. Remember you need enough room for the head to slide over the top of the studs. The studs need to be torqued into the block, and they definatly need sealant. I've heard of more studs leaking then bolts. Studs can also sometimes get in the way of the headers because they stick up further.

The larger bore head gasket will lower your compression slightly and also leave a ledge that can cause detonation. Hard to tell if you'll have trouble or not. A perfect gasket has exactly the bore of your motor. If you arent in a hurry just order the gasket from summit or jegs. You're probably closer to jegs. Here summits only 2 days away by ups.

If you dont have a tool to grab the stud so you can torque it, you can probably double nut and then torque it. Be sure to find out what hte torque spec is. It's not always readily apparent. I don't think you'll have enough room for either the tool, or double nuts with the head on. I also dont think you'll have room to slide the head over the studs with the engine in the car.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:44 pm Post subject:

If they are ARP studs you need to torque them with their moly lube at their specified torque, or with 30wt oil at a different torque of their specification.

You wont get an accurate torque on the stud by going one at a time. All of them need to be set into the block, then the head slid over. Again, don't think you'll have room in the car without taking out things like the heater box/brake booster.

91RSVert · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:49 am Post subject:

So the studs do have a stopping point, and thats how for down I have to take them.

Mad, for leaking. Are you talking leak coolent around them. Or leaking as not getting the correct torque?

The correct gasket is/was 1003. Wonder where I got in my head 1004? So I will go get another gasket. Will have to try a diff store. But the one I went to said they could have another one overnight.

I have to put the studs in first, and hopefully, but unlikely wont have space.

Yea, moly lube. Thats it. Is that the same as cam grease?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:14 am Post subject:

chevymad · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:35 am Post subject:

Correct, leaking is water. I have no idea why a stud would leak worse, but i've seen many people complain about it. I personally don't see why it should matter.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:39 am Post subject:

Just make sure you use liquid high temp teflon lube and NOT teflon tape.

91RSVert · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:41 am Post subject:

Twilight, so its ARP specific, awsome, dont you love crap like that. Should have come in the box, but I bet it didnt. So do I now torque to ARP stud specs, or still to the head specs?

Mad, agree. Dont see how it should change one way or the other. Maybe I should use silicone rather then tuflon.

Why do I always get into shizzle thats way over my head.

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

Why studs? Seems like an unnecessary pain in the ass.

91RSVert · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:21 am Post subject:

Gives more even torque, and with alumn heads, I want that.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:23 am Post subject:

lol ARP bolt hardware is almost as good, and doesn't seem to be an issue.

lol

You must torque an ARP bolt to ARP specs. NOT to factory specs. Different type of metal, different type of stretch.

91RSVert · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 5:31 pm Post subject:

I thought it had to do with clamping force of the head to block.

So vote. Copper coat this time, or not?

91RSVert · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:24 am Post subject:

What do I need to do to get this old copper coat off? Or can I just leave it on?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:38 pm Post subject:

91RSVert · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:46 pm Post subject:

So your saying like brake spray cleaner and wipe it off?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:11 pm Post subject:

91RSVert · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:58 pm Post subject:

Ive never heard "brake kleen" before. I wipped it off with engine degreaser last time(no copper coat)

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:11 pm Post subject:

degreasers leave a film behind.

Any parts store will have Brake Cleaner.

Brake Kleen is a brand. As well as gunk, and usually there is a house brand version too.

iansane · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:36 pm Post subject:

I love me some 3M Brake clean. $1.89 a can too!

91RSVert · Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 4:24 pm Post subject:

Got some 3m cleaner, took it right off. But you must be stealing it for 1.89 a can. It was 3.99 here Shocked

Most of it back together. Heads on, with studs to 80lbs, rockers adjusted. Hitting between 130 and 140 on compression. Intake bolted down with new end bolts, Dizzy bottom stabbed, brackets in place, vc's on.. 7 plugs back in..........

Last one fell and landed in my exhaust that is not bolted up yet. What are them odds?

Then I was given the wrong runner gaskets, having to wait on them to come in from out of town Rolling Eyes

.

With all these damn runner gasket problems, I'm really starting to debate the LTX intake.