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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:32 pm Post subject: Rear stoppage |
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New rear LS1 stoppage
To go with existing front stoppage
New 4th generation master stoppage controller
That is all......................for now 
Last edited by alloy on Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:38 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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GREG DAVIDSON Member

Joined: 15 Mar 2008 Posts: 1159 Location: Salem
1989 Pontiac Formula
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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| looks good !! cant wait to do that to mine |
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iansane Member

Joined: 16 Jan 2004 Posts: 5742 Location: Bothell
1991 Pontiac Trans Am
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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Nice! Big brakes are fun.
Is that master from an LT1 car? |
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cameron7710 Member

Joined: 13 Apr 2008 Posts: 813 Location: shoreline,Wa
1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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sweet!!  _________________
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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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No, was out of a 93 or 94 bird with a 6 banger. Had to reflare one line to make it work with the prop valve but that was easy. Just bolted it on and bled it all. Was the same car I got the ebrake handle and cable bracket out of. The hardest part was putting the 4th gen ebrake handle in. Had to "massage" it somewhat. Nothing major though. I also got another reservoir off a buick that has a fluid level sensor in it. Just have to wire that up to my brake warning light.
All the talk and worry about how to get the LS1 ebrakes to work is baloney. Was a total non-event getting them to work. Just had to play with the brake handle some, and use the 4th gen brake cable bracket I cut off the same bird. But talk about an ebrake................wow! I didn't think those little drum brakes would do much.........well the stop as good as my old full size drums did. And with much less effort on the brake handle. And I love the self adjusting ebrake setup. It's got a ratchet mechanism in the handle to take up excess play.
Unless you knew this was a 4th gen handle, at first glance you can't tell it's been changed.
By the way..........I've had those big front brakes for over 5 years now.
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Magman 11sec Club
Joined: 02 Apr 2005 Posts: 217 Location: Whidbey Island
1990 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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Nice job, looks sweet! _________________ 1990 IROC-Z, 383 HSR, 3.70 9-Bolt
383 RWHP / 372 TQ
11.78 @ 115 w/1.59 60' (8-18-2012) |
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Dewey316 The Lama

Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 7295 Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Looks good Dan. Has it really been 5 years since you did those brakes... wow, time flys. |
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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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Yup, pics of the brakes on the car are dated Sept 12, 2003.
Funny......I looked at my front pads today and after about 40k miles, I still have about 7/16" of the original 1/2" pad left. Good pads to say the least.
I used to think my car stopped on a dime with the big front brakes, now it stops on the same dime and gives you $.09 cents in change back. And I love the look........I HATED the drums back there. Been wanting to change them since say.......................oh about................Sept 12, 2003  |
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Dewey316 The Lama

Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 7295 Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Yeah. I really need to upgrade my rear brakes one of these days. With the 17" wheels, and the HUGE front brakes, having the drums in the rear is really funny looking. |
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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Dewey316 wrote: | | With the 17" wheels, and the HUGE front brakes, having the drums in the rear is really funny looking. |
I know exactly how you feel. Felt that way for about.......oh......5 years now I'd say. |
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Dewey316 The Lama

Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 7295 Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah. You are always one step ahead of me though. . It is actualy pretty interesting when you realise just how similar our cars are. Until I put the weight jacks on, we even had the exact same suspension stuff.
--John |
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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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| Dewey316 wrote: | Yeah. You are always one step ahead of me though. .
--John |
I'd say two steps.........T56 and rear brakes. So........when's the new T56 going in???  |
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Dewey316 The Lama

Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 7295 Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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When I can afford one. That is the next thing on my list. Especialy with the way my tranny was doing stuff at the track. I think its going to be time to upgrade here soon.
--John |
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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Well plan on at least $2000 if you do all the work yourself including rebuilding the trans. I'll be happy to help you build it. I learned a lot with mine and I couldn't be happier with the results. Your lucky you have a T5 car, much easier than switching from an auto.
The only thing that will really bug you is how high the clutch engages. Move the pedal 2" and your fully disengaged. There seems to be a lot of speculation on why this is. Some say it's the 3rd gen pedals with the 4th gen hydraulics, but one guy has 4th gen pedals and still has the high engagement point. I'm going to make my clutch master push rod adjustable in the next few days to see if this will help any. Going to do it without removing the rod from the car. Will be a pain, but MUCH easier than removing that dang master from the car. You will know that I mean when you do this. I wish I'd have done the mod to the push rod before putting the master/slave back in the car
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Dewey316 The Lama

Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 7295 Location: Bringing the tech
1990 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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Since I already have a T5 car, I will probably go the route that Paul went. Using the LS1 T56, that way I can re-use my clutch/hydrolics, etc. So that stuff shouldn't change for me.
--John |
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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:46 am Post subject: |
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I had considered going LS1 style, but decided to go LT1 instead. I went from a 10-1/2" clutch to an 11", and the LT1 flywheel was 5 pounds lighter than my T5 one was. I also didn't have to cut and shorten my nice aluminum drive shaft, and I've read a number of posts on LS1.com about problems with the hydraulic style throwout bearing. Granted the people posting about these problems might not be brain surgeons, but I decided to take the opinions with a grain of salt and avoid potential problems. Paul's seems to work well for him though, so go figure.
After it's all said and done I'm extremely pleased with how mine came out.
I've had ZERO problems with my setup. Like I told Mike, this was so trouble free it worries me. And the brakes/new rear seem to be the same way. I've never done such major mods like this and not had some problem crop up. I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop now. |
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Quasi-Traction "I have petals"

Joined: 24 Oct 2005 Posts: 3873 Location: stumptown
1986 Chevrolet Camaro Berlinetta
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:53 pm Post subject: |
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not to hijack the thread anymore....
but could you do a mechanical linkage with a T56? _________________
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alloy T56 Elitist

Joined: 25 Jan 2004 Posts: 1716 Location: Vancouver, WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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Hijack away.........doesn't bother me at all. I'm the one that mentioned a T56 in the first place here and started discussing it. We are talking about 3rd gens and how to make them better. That's the entire point I believe. Each of us throwing their $.02 cents in to make our cars better.
Anyway........I guess it may be possible with an LT1 style T56. A LS1 trans has a hydraulic push type release bearing and has no provision for a release fork. And the LT1 is a "pull" clutch. So instead of your mechanical linkage pushing the release fork, you would have to pull on it for this to work.
Honestly, it's probably not worth the effort. The hydraulics work pretty well. I'll figure out how to get my clutch pedal where I want it. I may try a set of 4th gen pedals if I can find a set at the junk yard. I know someone else said they tried them and didn't get anywhere, but you have to consider the source on that one. There are a lot of things that aren't supposed to work like 4th gen LS1 ebrake cables that worked perfectly for me, yet others struggle with them. |
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Xophertony Rodeo Queen

Joined: 13 Oct 2005 Posts: 5306 Location: Portland, Oregon.
1988 Pontiac GTA
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 3:51 pm Post subject: |
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| alloy, i know you are a mature responsible adult... but i am wondering, if you were doing about 25-35 miles an hour and you ripped up on that ebrake would it lock the rears? that's a requirement for any future rear brake upgrades i may undertake. |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)

Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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| alloy wrote: |
Anyway........I guess it may be possible with an LT1 style T56. A LS1 trans has a hydraulic push type release bearing and has no provision for a release fork. And the LT1 is a "pull" clutch. So instead of your mechanical linkage pushing the release fork, you would have to pull on it for this to work.
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Dan:
I'm running the LS1 T56 with ALL factory bellhousing, clutch fork, hydraulic clutch, flywheel, clutch set, pedals, etc.
I had to only do a handful of things. You do need a shorter driveline, but if you put a 9" in at the same time you wouldn't! You need a special $36 pilot bushing. And a $2xx adapter plate.
I found that the cost of the bushing and plate far outweighed the IMHO lame pull style LT1 clutch AND the cost of the clutch itself. It is helpful, however, to run an adjustable fork pivot and set it up to spec.
To run mechanical linkage all you'd need is the proper stock bellhousing or scatter shield (Highly recommended, especially with your approaching power level chris. Unless you want to be a drummer with no legs?) |
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