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Replacing ball joints

 
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DBL_TKE
Member


Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 1505
Location: Aloha, OR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 3:31 pm    Post subject: Replacing ball joints Reply with quote

Well, I'm replacing the ball joints on my car and frankly, I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I'm about to go get the separator tool but what I really need to know is how to get them in... without a press and with the A arm still attached to the car. I've been told it's possible but I'm not sure how. Maybe a rubber mallet or something? Any and all help would be much appreciated.
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Richmond 3.73 posi| 36/24 sway bars | SLP LM2 | Koni's | Ground Control 800/200 | Y2K wheels | Dyno Don headers & Y-pipe | airfoil | BBK underdrive pulleys | Raised strut mounts | Extended ball joints | LCARB'S
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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First after removing the spindle, set the a-arm on something solid.. and beat the ball joint down and out. Then.. to get the new one in, insert it in from the bottom, put a block under it, then set the car down on it. Now hit the a-arm down and the it should rattle the ball joint right into the a-arm. I actually find this method easier then a press. And even use it at work, where I have all the tools anyway.
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

without pulling it off the car it will be difficult. i always rent the press from auto zone. it's free.
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Al Hasse
Member


Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the press for mine too, but I had the A-arms out to replace the bushing (had someone else do them). It was tricky to keep the A-arm from turning without it being anchored to something while I was turning the rod on the press.
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92 Camaro
89 Camaro
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91RSVert
Member


Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 2736
Location: AR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had mine out to remove the surface rust and repaint.

I paid a shop 20 bux to insert new balls and bushings on both.(I supplied the parts)

I think that was the best deal I have ever gotten.

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2008 GMC Z71
1991 Camaro RS Vert
1972 Jimmy 4x4
20ft Longhorn Car Hauler
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DBL_TKE
Member


Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 1505
Location: Aloha, OR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

20 bucks is a damn good deal I'd say. Well yesterday I managed to get the passenger side ball joint out and the new one in. I did rent to press and the ball joint remover fork. It took quite awhile as I had to teach myself what I was doing the entire time. I also removed nothing, the spindle, strut, caliper rotor, A arm, were never removed. If I knew what I was doing I'm sure it would have went much, much quicker. I now have the drivers side to do today. Hopefully I can get it done before I have to head off the the track so I can get an alignment tomorrow.
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Richmond 3.73 posi| 36/24 sway bars | SLP LM2 | Koni's | Ground Control 800/200 | Y2K wheels | Dyno Don headers & Y-pipe | airfoil | BBK underdrive pulleys | Raised strut mounts | Extended ball joints | LCARB'S
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91RSVert
Member


Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 2736
Location: AR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess you mean you didnt take the spindle off the strut? Cause you gotta disconnect the spindle from the ball joint.
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2008 GMC Z71
1991 Camaro RS Vert
1972 Jimmy 4x4
20ft Longhorn Car Hauler
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)


Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flat rate it. You don't have to take the spindle all the way of. I've done it by just taking the end link off, and popping the ball joint loose from the spindle. I don't even use a pickle fork anymore. 4lb hammer. One good whack on the spindle distorts it enough to let the a-arm come down. Make sure you have chain around the spring though!
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DBL_TKE
Member


Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 1505
Location: Aloha, OR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well after taking a second look at it earlier, I realized that the ball joint wasn't completely seated on the a arm. I don't know if it's a bad tolerance on the ball joint it self or what but I can't for the life of me manage to get it to seat all the way. It's seated on one side but the other still has a bout an 1/8" to go. I managed to break a ratchet and a 1/2"-3/8" reducer for it. that sucker won't go on. I'll give it another go tomorrow, but if all else fails I think I'm gonna have to take the a arm off and have a shop press it in.

And yes the spindle is disconnected from the A arm but still attached to the shock.

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Richmond 3.73 posi| 36/24 sway bars | SLP LM2 | Koni's | Ground Control 800/200 | Y2K wheels | Dyno Don headers & Y-pipe | airfoil | BBK underdrive pulleys | Raised strut mounts | Extended ball joints | LCARB'S
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