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t-56 ?
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BigDaddyVu
12sec Club


Joined: 31 Jan 2004
Posts: 1118
Location: Spokane, Wa

1986 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was reading on those sites you guys sudjest. whats the difference between the LT1 t-56 and the LS1 t-56? i was told it was more desirable to get the LT1 type and will the shifter come outwhere it supposed to be?
doses anyone have pics of your mods?
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the way i understood it (am i wrong?):

so i think i was more right the first time, but just skip down and read what paul wrote Sad

EDIT* thatnks 305 302 eater, fixed. Cool
EDIT* gah... i don't know what i'm talking about.

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86' firebird (Junked in 2015). 88' GTA (sold in 2020).
aaron_sK wrote:
Hell, Tony drove his GTA to Cows a few years back with the pickup coil that came out in pieces.




Last edited by Xophertony on Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:53 am; edited 2 times in total
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305 302eater
Member


Joined: 18 Feb 2007
Posts: 604
Location: port orchard

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrong, the ls style t56 uses the hydrolic throw out bearing. Where as the lt t56 uses a pull style throw out bearing that still uses both a master and a slave cylinder. your backwards tony. O and paul As far as i've been told by all the hot rodders around here and a couple of trany shops that its better to use the pilot bearing rather then a bushing. They say they rarly ever go out. They told me to just buy a new one every time i put a new clutch in which goes without saying.
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305 302eater
Member


Joined: 18 Feb 2007
Posts: 604
Location: port orchard

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigDaddyVu wrote:
i was reading on those sites you guys sudjest. whats the difference between the LT1 t-56 and the LS1 t-56? i was told it was more desirable to get the LT1 type and will the shifter come outwhere it supposed to be?
doses anyone have pics of your mods?


I think you will still have to cut about 2 inches back on the tunnel to fit the lt1 t56 in But i'm not really sure my car had no hole so i had to guess. but i remember reading somewhere that you will have to cut two inches back.

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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen a couple places that sell the tko's and other 5spds recommend not using the bearing style pilot. There's pro's and cons to both of course. The bearing style supports the input bearing in the trans better.. but when they go out they total the input shaft. The rollers are hardened steel and just chew up the shaft like you stuck it in a lathe. I've replaced quite a few clutches that had ripped up the input shaft before. I can usually get away with polishing the input shaft then using the bronze bushing on it. No way to use the roller after its chewed things up.

The bronze bushing can cause input bearing problems when it gets worn, BUT the soft metal will never chew up the input shaft of the trans. Chevy's used the bronze bushing forever and it's almost always lasted as long as the clutch.

I guess I just dont like having an open roller bearing with no way to repack the grease running on an expensive part. The bronze bushings have oil baked right into them, so they're self lubing as it wears.
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305 302eater
Member


Joined: 18 Feb 2007
Posts: 604
Location: port orchard

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i guess I'll have to see for myself when i pull my trans when i get my crate which wont be for a while. If its all messed up i will go with a bushing then. Just find it odd that i have herd from a number of people that the bearing style was suppose to be better.
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Xophertony
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Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had a long talk with a parts store employee about bearing vs. bushing on input shaft, and while YES the bushings do wear faster, i agreed with his opinion that it was better to have to replace a bushing with every clutch job then it would be to replace in input shaft when a bearing fails. better safe then sorry in my opinion.

then not only will i have saved a few bucks (the bushings are about 4$ cheaper IIRC) i will be able to shift with peace of mind.
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Quasi-Traction
"I have petals"


Joined: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 3873
Location: stumptown

1986 Chevrolet Camaro Berlinetta

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

305 302eater wrote:

They told me to just buy a new one every time i put a new clutch in which goes without saying.


if you're going to have to replace one everytime you do the clutch, why not just save a few $$ and get a bushing and never have to worry about any of the roller bearings failing??

I guess I see things the way paul and tony do. Honestly, the arguement could go on all day between bearing and bushing, there's pros and con's to both. I personally will always run the bushing.

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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bearing pilot doesnt always fail, otherwise chevy wouldnt use them now. But when it does happen to fail you then have trans problems. Like I was saying pro's/cons to both. On a couple of other boards there have been huge debates about it. Kind of like prefilling an oil filter, aluminum vs iron heads, or oval vs rectal. Nobody ever really decides which is better.
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305 302eater
Member


Joined: 18 Feb 2007
Posts: 604
Location: port orchard

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chevymad wrote:
The bearing pilot doesnt always fail, otherwise chevy wouldnt use them now. But when it does happen to fail you then have trans problems. Like I was saying pro's/cons to both. On a couple of other boards there have been huge debates about it. Kind of like prefilling an oil filter, aluminum vs iron heads, or oval vs rectal. Nobody ever really decides which is better.


I agree there are pro's and con's to both. It is all up to the person and what they want to run. I was just stating what i run and what i have herd from others. Very Happy

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Schultzy89GTA
M.R.A. (11sec Club)


Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 4417
Location: Gresham, OR

1989 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chevymad wrote:
oval vs rectal. Nobody ever really decides which is better.


Shocked
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skomakowa and their crazy "rectal port" heads...

so wait... there are actulay cons to pre-filling an oil filter? i always thought this was somthing those of us in the know just did Confused
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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya.. the con is most of the cars made today either mount the filter sideways or even upside down. So unless you feel like pouring the oil on the floor you just put hte filter on empty. Almost every shop in the world doesnt fill the filter first either. I know i dont bother. My motors last 2-300k miles, so i guess it doesnt hurt much.
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ohh, makes sense.

i learned to change oil by changing it on diesel riggs with filters that had a 6 quart capacity, we primmed the filter. Shocked
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rjmcgee
The Hammer


Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 2328



PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xophertony wrote:
ohh, makes sense.

i learned to change oil by changing it on diesel riggs with filters that had a 6 quart capacity, we primmed the filter. Shocked


The only one I prefill is on my big truck.
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)


Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xophertony wrote:
the way i understood it (am i wrong?):

the LS1 style uses the hydraulic throwout bearing (bass ackwards from the thirdgen and LT1 style) and is the expensive way to go clutch wise, but because of this the trannys can be had cheaper.

the LT1 style uses the hydraulic slave cylinder (like our cars) and because of this are more desirable. this also means they are more expensive, but you make up for it by being able to spend about 1/3rd less on a clutch.

EDIT* thatnks 305 302 eater, fixed. Cool


Tony..... you must not have read my previous posts in this thread.

I am running an LS1 T56.... with a T5 Bellhousing,
87 Camaro T5 Clutch, And a standard 2pc rear main flywheel. With Stock thirdgen hydraulics, clutch fork, and throw out bearing.

From the factory the LS1 T56 uses a hydraulic throwout. Ian is running an LT1 IIRC and is running a hydraulic throwout.

There are many ways to do it.

If you want a scatter shield, you have to run an LS1 T56 and adapter plate like I did or you have to do some goofy mods to get the LT1 style to work.

ALSO the LT1 style isn't more desirable and thus more expensive. The clutch is more expensive because it's a completely different design from a thirdgen and older style. The throwout bearing is attached to the pressure plate and instead of the clutch fork pushing the bearing towards the motor, it brings the fork/bearing AWAY from the motor. It's a less efficient design, centerforce's patented centrifical weight design doesn't work with it, and it's something like 93-97 only. That's why it's more expensive. Also you aren't making up for any price difference. The clutch IS more expensive. $500 vs $300 (LT1 vs thirdgen style). Flywheel: $350 vs $150 (LT1 vs thirdgen style). Hydraulics for LT1 more expensive, no scatter shield, the only price downfall to the LS1 style is that you need a $200 adapter plate. Even with that you're still ontop over $150 and clutch replacements in the future are ..... yes $150 cheaper! (Talking performance clutches here).

BUT if you have a thirdgen with a T5... all you need is the LS1 Trans, adapter plate, pilot bushing, and shortened driveline.

If you went with the LT1 style, you'd need the trans, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder.


Also the hydraulic slave cylinder isn't like out cars, it mounts on the complete opposite side to get the clutch for to go the other way. That's why you need the 4th gen slave.
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BigDaddyVu
12sec Club


Joined: 31 Jan 2004
Posts: 1118
Location: Spokane, Wa

1986 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i passed on the t-56 i really need to get my car painted but if any one of you guys want to buy it i can give out the number he's only selling for 1k firm
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aximil
New Member


Joined: 18 Apr 2007
Posts: 13
Location: Bellingham/Custer/Poulsbo

1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is that out in spokane and what all does it come with, as you can see in my sig i need a new tranny at a good price
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aaron_sK
Member


Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question for Paul: I know you recommended using an LT1 starter over a T-5 starter. Are there any years of LT1 that are better, or are they all the same? I'm gonna assume that '93 was probably different though.
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)


Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

94-97 if you're going that route.

I got one from like a 94 or 95. Rebuilt from a parts store.

If you have an auto and need a starter anyway it's a good way to go because it's gear reduction. A little more expensive but better in the long run.

I don't know about the LT-1 bellhousing specifically, but you might be able to run a manual trans T5 starter if you needed but I don't know for sure. Obviously the LT1 starter will work.
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