Cascade Crew

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:56 am Post subject: Cuttings things close for Dyno

So my brake brackets wont be here until Saturday of the dyno or Monday afterwards!

Put my old module back in and instead of cutting out at 5500RPM it cuts out at 5700RPM.

So I went and bought a new dizzy per Dan's advice with MSD Cap.

CAR RUNS ALOT BETTER! Smoother in all places.... but craps out at 6000rpm.

My guess.... is that the Jacobs with it being super powerful and variable load.... can't get the power requirements it needs from the stock module at the high RPM.

So either the MSD box overcame that... or hopefully the Pertronix Module that claims misfire free to 7500RPM will overcome that.

So the MSD shipped and should be here THURSDAY! Good news there is that it only cost me $38!

And Fedex lost my box with my airfilter and module.... but I can pick it up tomorrow.

Plus getting Mike's car going, and John's car needs a quick trip with tuning!

After today I have to work tues, wed, thur.

And I gotta get the calendar in today or tomorrow for printing.

I feel stressed. Come on weekend and booze!

scott in wa. · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:00 am Post subject: Pertronix Module

Pertronix Module ??
what is this?
what does it do for you?
got a link??
thanks
scott

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:03 am Post subject:

It's the ignition control module. It goes in the distributor and based on what the ECM says... it tells the coil when to fire and how powerful.

$41 at Summit
http://www.pertronix.com/ptx2007_cat/ptx07_tuneup.pdf

D2002

scott in wa. · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:22 am Post subject: interesting

Humm, that is interesting.

Dewey316 · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:58 am Post subject:

Paul,

Really all I need is the laptop and WB. I don't think there is the much tuning, the biggest thing to fix is my WOT AFR nailed. I don't know if it will be off at all or not, I really just need to hook up the WB, and see what it needs.

alloy · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:50 pm Post subject:

I'm very glad to hear it runs better. And I think you may be on the right track to cut out the high RPM miss. I'm just wondering if you are exceeding the RPM capibility of the stock style dizzy even with the new style module.

I've not played with high RPM stuff in years.........last ones were my DZ 302 out of a 69 Z28. We used accell points with extra spring tension, or we put a small length of vacum tubing behind the arm of the points. Helped immensely. Another thing we did was to shim the dizzy shaft for about .005 end play. Kept the spark scatter down. The cam the points ride on wore on the top, and when the shaft rode up and the points rode on the unworm part and the gap opened up and we got high RPM misses. I'm wondering if your dizzy is moving up and down possbily causing your miss. Did you shim the new dizzy before putting it in???

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 6:15 pm Post subject:

Didn't shim it. Hehe Didn't really know what to do with it or where to get shims.

alloy · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 6:41 pm Post subject:

We don't carry the shims, Baxters does. Mr. Gasket product.

Easy to use. You drive the roll pin out of the gear, then shim the shaft to about .005 to .010 end play. Use feeler gauges to measure the play. Mine was at about .135 or there abouts. You could see wear on the bottom of the oil pump drive where it had worked up and down so much. Should have fixed that a long time ago. With the design of the gears, when the shaft moves up and down, the timing changes.

As I recall the shims were under $5. I think Tony's has them also.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:42 pm Post subject:

Shimming couldnt hurt. I've never done it on an hei style distributor but you have to do it with a pertronix points conversion. Alot of distributors have wayyyyy too much end play.. like measure it in inches instead of thousandths.

alloy · Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:06 pm Post subject:

I'm thinking if the reluctor moves up and down it may effect the timing/firing, not to mention how the overall timing is affected. So shimming the end play down couldn't hurt, can only help. My car doesn't go high RPM, but it seemed to help how it runs overall when I did this to my dizzy.

Paul............here is a page I found about HEI dizzy's. It's not for small cap HEI's, but in the middle of the page is a quick how to on shimming the end play down. According to the article, the end play on the dizzy they worked on had .064 end play which would cause about 5 degrees of variation of the timing. Definately worth doing for as easy as and as cheap as it is to fix. Mine had double that on end play........... geez........over 10 degrees of variation. No wonder it runs better now.

http://home.att.net/~rustynuts/HEI.htm

Mr.Gasket #2820
Distributor Gear Shim Kit

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG%2D2820&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:26 am Post subject:

The thrust washer is the little washer between the gear, and the thicker thing with aligning prongs on it?

If so I measured between the gear and the washer and came up with .058.

Verify and I'll go get shims tomorrow.

And adding thicker shims to reach the .010 is essentially pulling the rotor/shaft downward to keep the rotor close to the dizzy and not move or vary?

Just wanna make sure I have my facts straight :O)

alloy · Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:44 pm Post subject:

You are right. You are decreasing the end play so the shaft won't move up and down changing the timing. Leave the shim with the prongs on it where it is, and just add additional shims to get the play down to between .005 and .01.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 1:18 pm Post subject:

So I shimmed the dizzy to .009.

Put it back in with the pertronix module.

No spark out of the coil.

Coil has 12volts, and while cranking the ground side is pulsing (getting a tach reading whiler cranking too).

Go to put the old module back in..... the silver plate on the back comes off. Guess I'll be calling summit to get a replacement.

Old module in... no spark.

Coil maybe?

Checked all my leads... all the connections are solid and have continuity. The commander hooks to the laptop fine.

@U*($%Y@*)$^!@*^$)!@&*$!@*&$*()!@

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:26 pm Post subject:

Called Mr. Gasket ala Jacobs.... got the coil resistances:

Primary 32 ohms
Secondary 7500 ohms

Actual.....
Primary .7 ohms
Secondary 6.75 ohms on the 20k setting. So what... 6750ohms?

Sigh.

We'll see how my choice of replacements works out. Hopefully it didn't take out the modules.

Al Hasse · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:03 pm Post subject:

Dewey316 · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:05 pm Post subject:

I think I have a stock coil laying around, if you wanted to use it to test with...

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:57 pm Post subject:

SHE'S ALIVE~!

6500RPM!

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:59 pm Post subject:

Friday's Plan:
Pick up Calendars
Pick up Spark Plugs
Install Spark Plugs
Install MSD
Change Oil
Adjust Rockers
Vacuum
Wash
Wax
Tune
Tune Mike's Car
Eat Pizza
Relax as the time as come!

Dewey316 · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 4:08 pm Post subject:

My friday plans.

1) Try to avoid working, while at work
2) Pizza and Beer

Very Happy

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 4:12 pm Post subject:

Do have one more thing to say about Coils.

USA