Cascade Crew

[scott in wa.]

where can I order a kit, bolt on fuel lines for this HSR?
I thought some one make it.
thanks
scott

[Twilightoptics]

Don't know that anyone does.

You can get 18 and 16mm adapters from the stock lines to AN fittings. Then you run AN to Braided line fittings..... braided line... and then the HSr fuel rail fittings are AN.

[scott in wa.]

So they are 18 and 16mm line fittings, as far as the stock set up goes?
The steel lines that end up front on the iner fender well, they angle up slightly.

I was looking at them and thought the were 16mm and 14mm??
They are driving me crazy at this point.
thanks
scott

[Twilightoptics]

ohh think maybe you're right. Been years since I did mine.

~14mm and 16mm earls -6 AN adapters.
~2- 90º -6AN to Braided Line


(forget how many feet of braided I got.... think it was 10ft (5 for each side)) I ran them from the steel lines, up to the right, around the master cylinder and connected them to the rear of the fuel rails.


~1-(Think it was listed as a 45º fitting, but it's essentially a 90º made half straighter) so more like 135deg. Depending on how you look at it... -6an to Braided.
~1-90º -6AN to Braided Line

That was how I routed them to keep them out of the way and away from heat. It took a little finesse to get them fitted right with the curves because braided line doesn't twist. Once they were in, it's GREAT!

Have the AFPR on the drivers side rail on the back towards the dizzy, with the adjustment screw facing toward the fender, not toward the center of the intake.

[Magman]

I believe I still have my old fuel line kit that came with the HSR when I bought it (hiding in a box of old spare parts). If you can wait til tonight I'll dig through it and check for you.

I did mine with the engine out and ended up not using the custom made fuel line kit. Here's what I did... Carefully pull the stock lines out from the fender well and bend them to run up and along the firewall close to the distributor (clamp in place as you go). Then, IIRC, I cut the hard lines and installed AN flared fittings, connect them to a high pressure flex line which connect to the fuel rail. I did mine with the engine out so it was much easier and I wanted a clean looking install.

But, IIRC I do still have my fuel lines and several different fittings I ended up buying during my quest for a clean, professional looking install. If you're interested let me know and I'll see what I have. I sure don't need them.

Magman

[scott in wa.]

Hey thanks,
But I think I can do what you did, pull up the fuel lines and attach them to the fire wall and re-flare them .
But I will have to take the brake booster off to do it.
The only two things left to do on this thing is the fuel lines and the MSD digital,
Both are giving me fits.

we installed the MSD in side against the console on the side, but the wiring is a bit confusing. we cut and spliced to do the install for the msd to the stock coil just to see what happens, we disconnected the battery + and - wires on the battery for the msd, and cranked the motor over and its got power, I see the red light come on when cranking, even with the main wire off the battery, so now Iam wondering if this msd unit has some kind of multiple path power?????

I haven't even tried to hook up the jacobs coil yet, its only got two wires, I don't know which one is + and which is -.
Anyway, that’s our wows......
Put the headers on last night, what a pain, 3 hours.

Thanks
Scott

[Twilightoptics]

Not sure on the digital but the 6AL had VERY easy to follow instructions.

You don't have to reflare the steel lines. There are adapters that screw right to them with a -6AN fitting on the other end. Then the -6AN to Braided Line fitting screws to that.

You also don't need to take the brake booster off. Just route the hose around it. I went around the reservoir, between the reservoir and the bosoter, then under/behind the wiper motor. Didn't remove any of it.