Cascade Crew

Xophertony · Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 10:02 pm Post subject:

well, i could leave a little bit. for example on this picture you can see just how huge the indent is. most of it is not needed. but you might be right. it is an idea i have been kicking around for a while. i supose there is a good reason no one has done it before.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 10:06 pm Post subject:

I agree with rodney. Also, when you weld in SFC, you'll want a support bar to go from the SFC over the cat to the main frame at the trans tunnel.

Don't worry about the passengers. They are riding with you in a thirdgen... not a lincoln.

Do what you'd like with the mufflers, but at this point with the catback.. don't hope that ditching a bend will help flow or anything. Your engine simply isn't putting out that much power to be a factor.

MY SFC Brandon made. Made a set for himself also. Mike's are SPOHN IIRC. I have been thinking about repositioning part of my SFC from the exhaust routing now, but it's going to be a PITA.

My muffler IS an aerochamber.

It's a pretty BIG muffler and doesn't deaden sound all that much. Your one choice for quiet AND performance is Borla. But that's $$$$ Other than that... magnaflow might be semi comparable, but anything with a straight through design is going to be loud on our cars. Think about it.. I have two BIG mufflers... you'll have one LITTLE muffler. It's not going to be quiet.

Here is a real world example.... 3" offset in, center out summit muffler. Dirt cheap. Supposed to be better performance than stock. S10... 305, LT1 cam, Stock peanut heads, 1 1/2" Headers.

Had a pretty good rumble to it, didn't get "loud" just more deepness.

Put on a flowmaster. NOTICABLE improvement in power. And typical HP improvements are around 20hp when you can actually feel it. BUT it got louder.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 10:07 pm Post subject:

Picture doesn't work. All thirdgens have the indent. It's kind of a got used to.

alloy · Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 10:17 pm Post subject:

Paul, it's way less that 3/4" thick. Probably 3/16" or maybe 1/4" think 3" wide channel iron. It would look something like this pic. I don't need the round pipe sticking out of the back though, and maybe 2" square tubing for the cross bar where the arms mount. So just 2 "L" shaped bars welded to a length of square pipe.

Xophertony · Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 10:46 pm Post subject:

hhmm.. paul are your aerochambers the same size aero chamber i am running?

i should probably just switch back to the flowmaster... i just freakin hate dual outlets on a non true-dual car. makes me feel like a poser. like as if i have "fake" dual exhaust or somthing.. Rolling Eyes

i am just being picky now..

as for the exhaust bend and length.. yeah, it won't make any difference.. but it would shed a little weight and make it easy to get a jack under the rear of the car.. not that it's hard now.

well, if i have homemade SFCs i will need help. i have NO idea what i am doing.
here is a picture i drew on a TTA to show what i think SFCs should look like. the reaer bits are to tie the SFCs to both the rear control arm mounts AND the rear subframe bits that go up over the gastank and eventualy hold the bumper.

blue89 · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 7:50 am Post subject:

double post....

blue89 · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 7:52 am Post subject:

I've got a set of subframes from Comp that bolt to the tranny mount and go straight back to the rear frames. They were said to be the "best", but they will take up some ground clearance. They are only 2" square tube with some brackets on the end. I'm thinking I'm going to put them on (after a year of owning them). I could take a pic if you wanted.

They do cross through the stock cat routing tho, so I've done a sidepipe setup with a glasspack. Sounds okay, really helped out with 5000rpm torque.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 8:18 am Post subject:

PIece of cake Dan. I can weld that no problem at home.

Tony You'll need:

Qty 2 = 10"x 2.5" by 3/8" plate
Qty 1 = 5' x 1" schedule 40 pipe
Qty 2 = 60" x 2" x 2" by 1/8" square stock

Then you'll have SFCs. I like square stock because you can jack it up easier and safer.

On mine, I brought the two cross bars perpenticular to the frame, not the SFC. Can go either way, I don't think it would matter which.

Your center cross bar by the trans mount could be made instead, but it depends on your exhaust clearances. Also, the longer the bar, the easier the flex (more leverage).

I'm not sure what you've got going on in the back. All you need to do in addition to the staggered welds on the floor pan, is use the 3/8"... weld it to the SFC, drill a hole, and bolt it into the LCA mount aswell... and then weld all around it there.

blue89 · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 8:37 am Post subject:

Is it better to bring the bracing out to the rocker panels than to keep the braces on the inside?

Dewey316 · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 8:54 am Post subject:

The perimeter style are better, they resist the twisting forces better than the ones that just connect the frame rail.

(Just my humble opinion).

--John

Xophertony · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 11:10 am Post subject:

blue 89. the ones you are describing are intended for use on convertables. the convertables allready have a weak-ass SFC installed by ASC in the location the rest of us install ours. you can use them on a regular coupe and you WILL notice a difference, but those of us with perimiter SFCs will notice more of a difference. realy as long as you are putting on some SFCs you are doing a good thing

paul, in the back i also wanted to bring the connectors into contact with the rearward "frame" that is about two inches the the inside of the rear LCA mounts. these "frame" pieces go up over the tank and to the bumper core support. i think it would give me added strenght if i was ever hit in the rear, but it is probably unneccicary. like i said i realy don't know much about this stuff.

EDIT* al;so, i can get this metal on the cheap, at bulk order prices through my sisters work. my moms boyfriend worked there for 45 yrs and he is still friendly with everyone, and my mom worked there for 3yrs, anyway... what kind of metal do i want. i know it's steel... but.. you know, what else are they going to ask me about it. the schedule 40 pipe is self explanatory, but what about the rest, is that all they need to know?

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 2:49 pm Post subject:

4340.

Xophertony · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 4:41 pm Post subject:

4340?

blue89 · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 4:51 pm Post subject:

sweet! Thanks. That makes me feel better. I'm going to put them on before the next autocross then!

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 5:57 pm Post subject:

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 7:22 pm Post subject:

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 7:39 pm Post subject:

Isn't it nearly impossible to weld? I'm not too knowledgable about metals.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 8:14 pm Post subject:

The only steel I really like is the stuff that comes from GM out of Detroit.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 9:49 pm Post subject:

4340 is Chromoly.. It's an alloy, not "steel".
It's not impervious to weld. It's very hard, but becomes more brittle than regular carbon steel.

Tony... you want A36 or 1018 (preferably 1018 "The standards that it's made at are much more tight") But it's really HONESTLY not going to matter. Just "mild steel". Don't need anything fancy.

Xophertony · Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 9:51 pm Post subject:

cool.