Cascade Crew

aaron_sK

New rear brake pads are going on the Camaro on Monday. Is there any reason to spend $60+ on ceramic, or other stuff, or would it be best to just get normal semi-metallic pads and be done with it?

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:04 pm Post subject:

Just pick up a set of cheap brake pads. Avoid the long lasting versions. They wear the rotors faster. You want short lasting soft pads. Much cheaper to replace pads than rotors. Unless you have some high performance braking package and need every ounce of braking power for competition racing. But if that were the case you probably wouldn't be asking which brake pads to buy. Wink

There are better places to drop your money.

iansane · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:06 pm Post subject:

Who were you talking with today? Should've waited around a bit for me to hook you up.

From my understanding our rear brakes aren't really stressed with the stock prop/combo valve. The only benefit I'd see with a completely stock brake setup would be less dust with particular pad choices. I'm running bendix pads all around and love the fact that there is almost no dust.

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:12 pm Post subject:

QwkTrip - So are you saying stock type, or even cheaper than that?

Ian - I dunno, he didn't have a name tag, and I'd never seen him before. I'm not overly worried about the dust, since right now I have fluid all over hell, however I want to get decent performance out of them, without going overboard and wasting cash.

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:27 pm Post subject:

I don't have any guru technical reasons for my advice. I don't even know anything about brake pads. Just trying to use good sense. If I were shopping for brake pads I would probably use the following logic.

1. First priority would be to choose a pad made by a reputable manufacturer. At least you'll get good quality.

2. Choose one with a chamfered front and rear leading edges. Why? Because I recently bought some cross drilled rotors for my Aurora and that's what was recommended. No other reason.

3. Soft pads that won't wear so much on the rotors. I spent a good bundle on those cross drilled rotors and I want them to last.

4. I just want good brakes. Not interested in the best of the best. I drive a 4000 pound car. I'm not going to be busting corners on a race track. By the way, my Aurora stops on a dime and the rotors no longer warp. Mission accomplished! Cool

Check out Tirerack.com They might have a technical section on brakes and brake pads.

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

I agree with Qwk Trip. I have to do mine this week end and spent about $85-$90 for both front rotors and like $25 for the pads. The first pads the guy offered up was some super dooper pads for $65, no thanks.

Xophertony · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:50 pm Post subject:

i never thought of the rotor wear thing. i bought 95$ ceramix pads from napa (only thing they had in stock) for my rears....

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:04 pm Post subject:

Use the same pad materials on all four corners. Don't mix and match.

If you really want to do something to increase braking performance then completely change out the brake fluid to get the old watered down crap out. Install reinforced stainless braided brake hoses to your calipers. These will expand less than the factory hose and result in a better feel and more responsive and predictible braking.

Don't worry about fancy rotors unless you go bigger in diameter AND install multiple piston brake calipers. You want the larger diameter for increased leverage to stop the car. You want the improved calipers so you can properly grip the rotors. I'm just guessing, but I would imagine stock brake rotors with upgraded multiple piston calipers yields better results than stock calipers with super duper brake rotors.

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:12 pm Post subject:

I'll admit the idea of rotor wear didn't occur to me either, although they're just stock-style rotors, nothing special.

I'll probably end up picking up something like this:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BEN&mfrpartnumber=D154&parttype=220&ptset=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=WEA&mfrpartnumber=MKD154&parttype=220&ptset=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=WEG&mfrpartnumber=MKD154&parttype=220&ptset=A

QwkTrip - How big of a deal is it to keep all four the same? I was always told that you keep try and keep them the same across the axles, but front to back isn't a big deal. Wrong thinking here? The ones on the front are in excellent shape.

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:13 pm Post subject:

Xophertony · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:27 pm Post subject:

just had the les-schwab rotate my tires today. Duh

.... dang, well too late now. Very Happy

i'll back them off to torque spec tomorow i guess. hmm.. i always air gun them on too. i'll have to stop doing that Shocked

.

as for my brake setup, i have stock crap in the front, and 1LE 89+ rears with new rotors, new calipers, new pads, and braided steel lines on the end of new hardlines.

i have a box next to my desk (where i can look at it often Very Happy

) with my new 98+ brakes in them. LS1s bitches! used rotors, new pads. new hubs, but i have yet to get the rotors for them. debating wether or not to go with crossdrilled or not. at my driving level the increase in performance is neglageable, but they look cool Cool

this actualy breminds me i need to make a brake questions post...

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:28 pm Post subject:

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:34 pm Post subject:

QwkTrip · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:42 pm Post subject:

I wouldn't spend money on cross drilled rotors. LS1 brakes are great and have very little fade. Those cars have unbelievable stopping distances. If you run your brakes hard then they will outgas. The only reason for the cross drilling is to allow gases to escape from between the pad and rotor. Unless you are going to run lap after lap on a race track while dynamiting your brakes on every corner... it's probably not worth the money.

iansane · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:54 pm Post subject:

I've always heard that the ls1/c5 calipers suffer from nasty caliper spread?

Xophertony · Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:56 pm Post subject:

thats under heavy race use Surprised

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat May 20, 2006 5:46 am Post subject:

QwkTrip · Posted: Sat May 20, 2006 10:20 am Post subject:

There's an easy solution to all this.... communication! If the mechanic doesn't know your expectations, then your expectations probably won't be met.

Imagine yourself doing their job. Are you going to remember the torque specs for every car that comes your way? No. You're going to make sure it's tight enough for every circumstance. Next time tell them the specifications for your wheel and ask them to hand tighten to spec. Better yet, hand them a piece of paper with it written down. If they still don't do it right then you have a right to be torqued off. Very Happy