Cascade Crew

[scott in wa.]

I went down, got my money back for the starter.
then went down and bought a mini, high torque starter ($200. ouch)
works good right now.

Fuel pressure with vac hose on is 43psi average.

OK
Iam running a stock ARAP bin, trying a few of them, this one seems to idle better, but I get a code 44, lean o2. just in the drive way with open y pipe,no cat, a few times up and down the street.
will data log later today, i hope

thanks
Scott

[Twilightoptics]

You need to set the fuel pressure with the vacuum hose DISCONNECTED... When you set it, you set max fuel pressure.

If ARAP idles better, copy that maf setting, into that "may" bin. Then richen it up a hair.

Spark has alot to do with getting our cars going. Non of my engines wanted to idle without surging, under 26deg of timing. That may bin has all the timing tables computed into the main spark table. You wont have to jumble around with all the different modifiers and such.



Edit: Sent you a new bin with some combinations of all three. Let me know how that works.

[chevymad]

Scott, one thing I noticed in another thread. You said you had an exhaust header leak? If you do and its up stream from the O2 sensor, the sensor will read lean and it will add more fuel in closed loop. When you get to fine tuning the chip you definately dont want any exhaust leaks in front of the sensor.

[scott in wa.]

Good point,
I put a new gasket on that side this morning.
Bought a hotter set of plugs also. not in yet
New wires as well.
I do notice some arcing going on under the coil where the wire plugs into it, its got a chalky white look to the brass terminal, as well as most of the terminal do the dist. cap.
I will double check for exhaust leaks tomorrow.
I think its fixed now, but the car is pretty loud with open pipe
I should put the rest of the exhaust back on so I can here what's going on before I run it again tomorrow.




thanks
scott

[Twilightoptics]

I can verify the exhaust leak thing. Had a pretty good exhaust leak on the jimmy.... in the meantime I got it to idle good. Fixed the leak, it idles a bit rough now! DOH! lol

Chips come tomorrow!

[scott in wa.]

getting tunerpro.exe error then it shuts down.
Iam running the 6e data stream file.

I also see that I can view the live data, but the dashboard doesn't work they are all zero's But the flags and such seem to work.

Looks like its logging, it turns green and shows sample rate.
But when I try and play it back BOOM, .exe error.

Oh ya coolant temp shows -39deg, (no way) and no knock counts showing.
Maybe I have them switched? Same connectors.
Oh, wait a minute coolant sensor is up front on the intake
I was thinking of the knock and fan sensor.
could be a bad coolant sensor -39 deg
I unplugged coolant sensor and it turns black, then plug it back in and it turns red.

Even with this at -39 deg, it still went into closed loop.


Oh, header bolts were loss again, all tight now.


Scott

[scott in wa.]

Ok so the dash board is working on turner pro.
It was me, operator error..

the other stuff still doesn't work.

I traced the wires from the coolant temp sensor, Yellow and black
All the way to the ecm, they are good!!!
So why isn't that sensor working? Still showing -39.00 that's not correct.

Also I notice that there are two coolant sensors up front on the intake.
The other one has a fitting like the fuel injectors. Must be for coolant temp for injectors? if so, Can I get a live display for this one on tunerpro?
they are very close to each other.

thanks
Scott

[iansane]

Are you talking about the 9th injector? I think the drivers side between the two sets on injectors?

[Twilightoptics]

Okay here goes..... In the front of the TPI intake there is a Coolant Temp Sensor. It's small, two wire. This is the ECM reading for coolant temp.

The second sensor, is a temperature switch. When the temperature is under a certain temp set by the switch, it allows power to go to the 9th injector (which is the little thing in the middle of the driverside intake runner, at the intake base. It has one small tube that runs to the back of the fuel rail.

If you are running the $6e code, you NEED TO DISCONNECT either the front switch or the 9th injector itself. I recommend the injector itself. The ECM does no control the 98th injector. It's purely mechanical based on that temp switch.

The coolant sensor for the gauge is located in the cylinder head. One side of the engine has fan switch, the other has coolant temp for the gauge on the dashboard.

Hope this help. REPLACE THAT ECM COOLANT SENSOR IN THE FRONT! It's $15 or so and will be a HUGE help!!!!

[chevymad]

Looks like you've probably found your problem. When gm coolant sensors go bad they go to that -39 #. Then your ecm really poors in the fuel. I've seen some tbi trucks that won't even start when they're like that. You may have 2 choices for the sensor. One comes with harness(just the plug in with 2 short wires) the other is without. Unless your plug is messed up the other one is about 1/3d the price.

[scott in wa.]

Yep, I believe that to be one of the problems,
I unplugged the 9th injector.
But the ECM sensor I put in today still reads -39 deg. what a pain. I will have to check voltage at the ECM on the yellow wire, I think its 1.5 volts.
lol, I have a gm manual, hehehehe.
two steps forward one back.
I wonder why the knock sensor reads zero, I bet its disabled under a certain ecm temp. lol.
Could be ECM, I guess I will find out tomorrow.

Thanks guys for the help,
I need every bit I can get.


Anybody on the data logging on tunerpro?

[Twilightoptics]

knock sensor reading zero. If you don't hear any, and it says zero, there isn't any. Which is a good thing!