Cascade Crew

91RSVert · Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 7:36 pm Post subject: t5 repair

So I decided due to cost, to keep my t5 rather then t56 it. Soon as I got under the car, I am sure I found my vibration problem. Every bolt to the trans was loose, doh!!

Anyway, I have a new clutch here, so its going in. Also now that I can heliarc, I am going to fix the broken ear on the case as well.

I had told you all before, the flywheel had burn marks. Tell me if you think I should have it resurfaced, or just replace it?

Also this is the first time I have been under it since installing an LS1 drive shaft. I found this....

Any suggestions on this? That is with the ebrake on. When its off it fully touches the DS. Id really really prefure not to go back to a steel ds. :edit: Now that I am looking, I wonder if I can bend that tab and it stay away?

iansane · Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 8:03 pm Post subject: Re: t5 repair

chevymad · Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:18 pm Post subject:

Are there any cracks in the flywheel or just discoloration? If it's cracked spring for a new one. If its discolored get it surfaced. But get it done someplace that uses a flywheel grinder, not a backwoods adapter for their rotor machine. A lathe will skip over the hard spots leaving high spots on the surface. Grinder takes everything down smooth.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:26 pm Post subject:

You won't be able to tell much with it still bolted up under the car. Pull it out, clean it with brake cleaner and set it on the bench under some light. That will reveal any cracks/deep grooves/ect.

91RSVert · Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:15 am Post subject:

removed it first thing. Found an s shape crack on it. So I will be hunting for a new one today it appears.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:26 am Post subject:

Id still surface it. 99% of cracks are on the surface and come out when ground.

Always surface your flywheel with a new clutch or you wear both out faster.

91RSVert · Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:47 am Post subject:

I'll just geta new one. Yet no parts stores carry one, lovely. :edit: found one, woot!!

91RSVert · Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 5:29 pm Post subject:

ok, new clutch is in. But the peddle point is way to the floor. I have bleed it a few times by pushing the ram in while the bleeder is open. Gained some back.

Any other suggestions?

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:47 pm Post subject:

Mityvac.

Bleed it out the top with one hand while drinking a beer. Cool

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:43 am Post subject:

Why take the hydraulics apart in the first place?

91RSVert · Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:27 pm Post subject:

I didnt

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:36 pm Post subject:

If you didn't crack the lines then how did bleeding it bring the pedal up? Confused

If the problem is air intrusion then it needs to be bled correctly. If the problem is mechanical because the clutch job didn't get done right (TOB in backwards, for instance) then you need to deal with that.

91RSVert · Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:08 pm Post subject:

He said take the hydraulics apart. I didnt take them apart. I bleed the system because the pressure point is at the floor. Which from my past experience means it has air in the system.

TOB is in correctly. I have drove the car a few miles. I just dont like the pressure point being so far down.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:13 pm Post subject:

With a new clutch and flywheel, if it's all correct, and installed correctly, the release point should be closer to the top of the travel than before.

It should have action between 1/4 down and 1/2 way down.

MrMike98 · Member Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton

try locking the fork mechinism(clutch slave cylinder) with like a big C-clamp, then step on clutch pedel and bleed like brake's...remove c-clamp, check pedel travel..

if u bleed with any movement of clutch slave cyl. u can trap air..

M

chevymad · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:21 am Post subject:

I usually bleed one by opening the bleeder.. compressing the slave... close the bleeder. Let it expand. Repeat about 3x.

91RSVert · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:57 pm Post subject:

drove it over a 100 miles today.
as for "not installed properly". I put this thing together by the book more then I ever have before as many times as I have had it out. Flywheel torqued to gm spec, clutch torqued to gm spec, throw out installed, new poilet bushing installed, front input shaft seal replaced, torqued to spec.

If I could find a torque to setting on it, it was done to that.

problems gone....
occasional vibration in neutral, clutch out
groweling in neutral, clutch out
vibration at 45mph in 4th
let of gas at 55+ whine
doesnt like to go into 1st
doesnt like going into reverse

problems created
pressure point is consiberibly lower then it was before

I noticed a shim between the crank, and flywheel. I left it on there. I'm wondering if maybe I should have put a thicker one?