Cascade Crew

blue89 · Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 9:49 pm Post subject:

Depending on how bad the clash is between the magnet and the defroster vent duct, you can fix it with a little heat. Just heat up the duct until its soft and push it down a little.

I would disagree on 150A through a 4awg wire. I would stop at 80 if I were you unless you had good insulation on it or open routing. The real danger behind this isn't that the wire is getting hot, its that the insulation is getting soft. And a lot of the insulation I have seen is not heat resistant enough to stop a hot wire from going through it, especially if the wire is being insulated by going under carpet and seats. I don't know how many times I've seen wire pushed almost to the outside edge of the insulation where it ran under a panel or seat.

The thing that saves you on this is the fact that the music content isn't 100% bass the entire time. If you're a bass head and crank it all the time, you better consider bumping up the wire gauge. Do an experiment and crank it for as long as you can stand and then see how soft that insulation gets. Cheap insulation can get pretty interesting.

just my 2 cents.

BluFbdy · Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 6:55 pm Post subject:

The actual draw is never consistent. Sound is A/C so it may peak up there but it will never go that high long enough to pop the fuse, with the pdx I would run an 80 amp fuse, I've got both my 4 channel and my 600 watt mono block on a4 gauge fused @8/0 and I've never had a problem, tuning can be a PITA on those amps just to wean you, I would set your high pass to 120 for the fronts and rears, set your lowpass filter on the sub channel around 120 for 12's and 85 for 10's. Set your low pass first, then adjust the gain accordingly. If its possible I would shorten the ground wire, 3 feet is kinda long for a ground, traditionally you want it within 24 inches at the max where is the amp mounted at?

DBL_TKE · Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:08 am Post subject:

So after test fitting again I found that the driver side dash speaker was actually hitting the gauge cluster from above, not the HVAC ducting. I was able to get the clearance I needed by using a couple of washers to space up the speaker. So everything is installed now. I will say that I dont notice much of an improvement in sound quality over the stock speakers.

My speakers are still powered by the reciever and I have the high pass set at 120Hz but i dont remeber the slope off hand. I have the low pass set to about 80-90Hz on the amp for the subs with the subsonic filter set at 30Hz and the gain is set at a little less than halfway on the knob. Now I have read somewhere that I should only use one source for a LPF for the subs, is that true? My receiver has settings for the subwoofers as well so I have that set to 80Hz with a 6dB/octave slope.

BluFbdy · Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:16 am Post subject:

You can do a doubld low pass thats fine I always do, the washer thing is pretty normal my speaker is the same way lol normally what I do is bump up the bass boost on the deck and set the lowpass then I tune the amp around that, that way if you need to raise or lower the bass for different music you can do so off the deck, high passing the deck at 120 is good, in the future if you run a 4 channel you will get clearer crisper sound and it will also be louder