Cascade Crew

chevymad · Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:43 pm Post subject:

Was just reading about how many cc's a valve job adds. It will be slightly less for a chevy due to the smaller valves, but a pontiac adds 3cc per 0.0019 of seat removal.

Just interesting trivia at this point.

Alphius · Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:52 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:20 am Post subject:

Okay so you're coming up with 10.1 now. That seems more reasonable than 10.5

As for that gasket. That's the gasket I used for YEARS and NEVER had a leak. Always used copper coat because the rubber is mostly there to keep the gasket for rusting, it doesn't seal imperfections as well as the composite gaskets. When I was toying with the idea of a set of aluminum brodix heads, I asked some big names like Mike Lewis of Lewis Racing Engines about gaskets, since I had pistons in the hole like you did. He said most DEFINITELY run copper coat on the shim gasket. See, the shim again doesn't have give to accommodate the difference in metal expansion between the iron block and aluminum head, the copper coat bridges that gap. And also, to torque the head down from 35lbs in 5lb increments to the bolt/stud desired torque.

I know you cannot use them on aluminum blocks with steel liners. Even Jegs has copper coat as a recommended accessory.

I had my heads off 3 times, and used the same method described by Mike L. and never had a leak and it's still going strong today.

Alphius · Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:57 am Post subject:

I think you misread my first post about CR. I said it calculated out to 10.15 not 10.5 but I see how you got confused. Wink

If you ran the rubber/steel with copper coat and had no problems I think I will too. It's just that I've had no experience with it and you have, while everything I've read says copper coat on a rubberized shim causes big problems. Reading things isn't the end all be all I know, but that's why I created this thread, so I could get help with the things I don't have any experience with. Theory is great and all, but experience is better. Wink

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 10:21 am Post subject:

Ahh yeah must have misread. Phones are great for that.

Like I always say, engine's don't read books.

Alphius · Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:07 am Post subject:

Alphius · Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:35 am Post subject:

Last night I started putting everything together. I got my head gaskets copper coated then torqued my heads down. I assembled all of my rocker studs and guideplates. Then I went and bought an 8" digital caliper and checked/measured for pushrods. The correct measurement ended up being a stock length of 7.800". I ordered up a set of Trick Flow chromoly pushrods (since I used the trick flow measuring tool) and they should be here next week, so at that point I can resume assembly.

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:33 am Post subject:

nice, i bet you are getting excited!

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:18 am Post subject:

How did you measure for pushrods with calipers?

You can't possibly turn the motor over to.check the contact patch with calipers

Alphius · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:22 am Post subject:

I used my checking pushrod and marked the valve and checked the pattern at a few different lengths until I found the best length, then I removed the checking pushrod and measured it with the calipers because that's the recommended procedure? The Trick Flow pushrod checker isn't marked for length, you're supposed to measure it with calipers.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:07 am Post subject:

You used a pushrod length checker, that's good.

It sounded like you just threw calipers in there some how.

The good pushrod length checkers have marks on them to tell you what length to order. Each rotation is X length.

If I remember correctly, pushrods are NOT measured tip to tip. That's why the checker has a all the way down it's XX.XX and each turn makes it X longer. Then order the length from the manufacturer that made the checker.

IE if you want comp pushrods, you should use a comp checker. I know at one time Crane and Comp measured their lengths differently. There is no standardization.

Needless to say, when you get your new pushrods, recheck the contact pattern with a sharpie to verify. It's also best do use a solid lifter for checking.

Alphius · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:45 am Post subject:

When I ordered the Trick Flow length checker I thought it was one of those "X rotations=X length" ones but when it got here I was sadly disappointed. So I made the best of the situation and measured it with calipers like they said to do. I will be measuring the ones that I ordered and re-checking the pattern with them as well.

I did order Trick Flow pushrods to match the Trick Flow length checker, so hopefully all is well when they arrive tomorrow.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:53 am Post subject: