Cascade Crew

[Alphius]

I am considering buying the RaceCraft spindles to help correct suspension issues caused by extensive lowering which is to occur soonish.

The only issue I think I might have is the tie rod may interfere with the wheel. Is there any good way to check for this potential interference?

Also, does anyone have any opinions of the RaceCraft setup that might influence my decisions one way or the other?

http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=280&products_id=70&zenid=cbd8d16d57e61272850308803d7b1a9f

[91RSVert]

Difficult way, but take the tie rod loose, arc it down about 2" and see how close it comes to the wheel.

However, another would be TGO user Dean who was one of the better suspension gurus there, had a bump steer kit with stock 16" irocs. Not sure how much the kit lowered his tie rod, but I would guess 1.5'ish.

[Alphius]

[Dewey316]

you might want to check out this thread about some of the build quality stuff on racecraft spindles.

http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=34665

that said...drop spindles are nice, but at the same time, our cars when lowered beyond 2", you end up with very little suspension travel, so some of the flaws (such as camber change and bump steer) are slightly negated and you can get a pretty well sorted out car with the right static alignment specs.

[Alphius]

Dewey, thanks for that, that was quite an interesting read on the potential quality issues and overall high quality of the RC spindles.

What you said about lack of travel really has been tickling at the back of my mind for a couple weeks on this, the stiffer the springs and the less travel I have then the less I should be affected by the incredibly sub-optimal adjustment of camber curves and bump steer. I have been strongly considering spring rates around 950/250

I shouldn't care so much because my car will not be used for competitive events at all, but part of me just wants to do everything the best and most technically "correct" way that I can.

[Dewey316]

If you were going to actually use it at events, i would tell you to go with even stiffer springs. Driving around the NW, you need some compliance, our roads are not great and you need some suspension movement to cope with the bumps. I would say 875/200 combo is probably about as far as I would push the spring rates for a car that is going to live on the streets. 1) So you don't bounce the car over the road surface 2) the stiffness needed is a function of the tire grip (more grip, more spring rate), the street tires just don't grip enough to justify the stiffer springs.

[Alphius]

I've pretty much made my decision, I probably will not get the RaceCraft spindles. Too much money for too little gain on a primarily street driven car. I can get close enough through other means.

Some non-competitive autocross or track days and such may take place eventually.
I like stiffer due to the high overall grip of my tires compared to most street tires. Roads also aren't too bad up here in Northern WA where I am aside from passes and I-5.
I have been taking all the information I can into account, I don't want to make the wrong choice. I wish I had ridden in your car at some point John, instead of just driving behind you on the last cruise. It would do a lot for me to have a frame of reference for spring rate.

[iansane]

Only issue with tires is you can't have them on for too long and keep the same tractive capabilities. Extreme cold and extreme heat will lower their grip. Not that my BFGs are an amazing tire (Ha! far from...) but I have noticed a steady decline in performance over the time having them.

[91RSVert]

On spring weight, you also have to take into account for the cars weight.

I noticed just replacing my front bumper sub structure to alumn, made the front of my car from rubbing in one spot, to not.

So what Im saying, is if you are a full trim car, and Johns isnt. You would need even stiffer spring to compensate. Which I'm sure you already knew this though.

[Dewey316]

If anything his car should way less than mine. The only weight savings my car has, is the AC removal, and alum. intake manifold.

[Alphius]

My car is probably a couple hundred (100-200) lighter than John's.

[blue89]

Might be fun to do a group meet at a weigh station some where are there any near the dyno in ptown?

[Dewey316]

[91RSVert]

[DBL_TKE]

I've been considering drop spindles as well, the only way I think it would work for me is to get the ones with the shorter steering arms that are designed for manual racks but just use it with the stock steering. The way I see it, I'll get a lot more steering angle, quicker ratio, correct bump steer and clear the front wheels. however I would plan on running extended ball joints in addition to drop spindles, as well as a bump steer kit. Why? Because the drop spindle alone corrects the geometry for a 2" drop. My car is currently lowered over 3" and I still want to go another 1"-1.5" lower.

Quick question, is it possible to flip the center link so it's on top of the pitman and idler arms?

[91RSVert]

[DBL_TKE]

I wasn't referring to "flipping" as rotating it 180*. I meant it as instead of mounting it to the the bottom of the pitman and idler arms but on top of them, essentially raising it 2" or so, creating the same effect as a bump steer kit. I can't remember wheathed or not the pitman and idler arms have tapered mounting holes.

[blue89]

They are tapered. Doesnt stop the drift crowd. They drill them straight and run a bolt with a heim joint.