Cascade Crew

BluFbdy

So Luke and I have my motor swap fairly done, its in filled and ready to go, problem is my starter just crapped out and my headlights won't work. I'm in need of help on this, were going to get a new starter in a few mins but I'm still not getting signal from the purple wire, checked and replaced fusible links with no avail.

Wrenching party? Beer will be provided!

Text me if you can help tomorrow 803-451-1778 I need to know ASAP [/code]

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:15 pm Post subject:

Working tomorrow or I'd be down to work on this.

FWIW here is my advice:

Drop column without removing it. Pull the ignition switch plug out and start probing with your multimeter. It's a dumb animal. Red is battery, orange is ACC, Pink is crank AND run and Yellow is crank only. All 10ga wire.

BluFbdy · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:23 pm Post subject:

True, it may be put of adjustment I've been under the dash for the past 2 days rewiring this crap had to run the purple and green from the neutral safety switch to the clutch start switch and the blue/ green smaller pair to the reverse lights, I've been having trouble translating the 80's wiring to the 90's, the grey connector on the steering column isn't hooked up either, the new harness has waaaay more wires than the older 80s style and I can't figure out which wire does what any info in that area? I went out today and bought a 90s headlight harness to avoid any possible pin issues, so its obviously gotta be in that unhooked connector, and there's also a single relay mount with a blue and tan and 2 other wires in it, can't recite from memory but its right under the colum there's just so many wtf spots its got me going insane

RSFreak · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:24 pm Post subject:

What engine you put in it?

BluFbdy · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:27 pm Post subject:

355 tpi with lt1 cam, Ford 24lb injectors, and full roller valvetrain hooked to my shotty t5 lol

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:01 pm Post subject:

Well the green goes to the VATS not the starter so there's your problem right there. Razz

The starter circuit is pretty simple. Red wire comes from fusable link on starter, through C100 at firewall, into ignition switch. Turns yellow and goes into VATS relay, turns green and goes to clutch/shifter switch, then turns purple and heads back through C100 and down to solenoid. There is a break in that chain.

Of the two single-row plugs going to the column the shorter, fatter one with green/purple/gray/white is the wiper and the longer narrow one is the blinker/stop/hazard.

High beam will be going into it's own switch and be Tan/Green/Yellow.

If you have cruise that will be a bunch of tiny wires in a single gray or black sheath.

BluFbdy · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:09 pm Post subject:

The interior harness is a 90-92 auto, Luke did some searching and evidently we messed up, I just listened I've seriously been only sleeping 2-3 hours for the past week lol, so we run the yellow from the ignition switch to the clutch then huh?

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:13 pm Post subject:

I edited my post above while you were posting and added a flow chart. Cool

BluFbdy · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:48 pm Post subject:

Alright so my old column connector had 5 wires, white, grey, green,purple and pink. He new interior connector has white, grey, green, purple, pink, grey/black, blue, grey, pink/ black....see my conundrum here?

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:52 pm Post subject:

That's the wiper harness. You won't need that til next Saturday. Razz

BluFbdy · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:33 pm Post subject:

Fair enough lol

RSFreak · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:53 pm Post subject:

91RSVert · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:47 pm Post subject:

That motor should be fairly good, sounds like a slightly better combo then mine.

Sorry cant help on wiring unless I'm there with diagrams.

BluFbdy · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 5:28 pm Post subject:

Well we got the wiring fixed thanks to Aaron, now the damn thing won't fire, 45 psi at the rail, used a test light to verify the injectors are firing and the plugs were gassy, not fouled tho. We have good spark at the dizzy, new icm and coil, its gotta be valve adjustment and timing. Bowtie performance supposedly set the balancer and tab to the right spec but how do I check? I've tried turning the dizzy while cranking with no luck so I want to adjust the valves first to initial starting spec, Aaron said apaul wrote this up somewhere but I can't find it

This motor will be the death of me

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:02 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:37 pm Post subject:

If the timing is off too much its hard to start a fresh motor.

You rotated it once after setting the timing chain before dropping the dizzy right?

BluFbdy · Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 2:46 am Post subject:

its all good now....ish. The motor runs, it drives but of course theres plenty of kinks to work out. The shortblock was assembled by bowtie performance so the cam should be set properly, i remember checking it over and didnt have a problem but that was also what.....a year or so ago? lol Luke and I got fed up because we had all the areas covered so we yanked the distributor, set #1 to TDC and restabbed, which worked out, we think we were off by one cylinder before. We went through and adjusted the rocker arms the way he does his which is pop the covers, tighten down any clacking arms and then go 1/4 turn, set the pinch nuts as you advised paul. I need to do some readjusting now that im not taking up his moms garage, driving its pretty sluggish on the lower end and when i downshift it backfires occasionally. Timing was set to 6* when we restabbed, ive got a laundry list of to do's tomorrow

1. Fix ALDL because it randomly grounded so i had to drive in forced close loop
2. Do the tach fix, new dash was from a v6
3 T-shoot my hvac, i did some custom wiring before the swap and now it doesnt work but luckily i know my own work so i have an idea where to look
4. Figure out WTF is up with my speedo, i put the electronic VSS in but the speedo isnt reading out at all, luke said it may be a tune issue? Moates took access of his computer when he had the issue
5. Fix a few exhaust leaks....if possible
6.Reset minimum air and tps

Not neccesarily in this order. So anyway the offer for a helping hand still stands, im not very experienced with adjusting valves or tweaking a tune, i know the lt1 cam doesnt make too much of a difference but i think between the tune and the rocker arms would be the sluggish issue, once i hit the middle of each gear it took off pretty damn well

Im totally brain fried right now, the past week has been 2-3 hour cat naps for me so there may be more i just cant think of it right now

I gotta say though, the motor is clean, looks good, and sounds incredible lol even with the exhaust leak its very aggressive Very Happy

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 7:00 am Post subject:

Not the best way to eet lash. And messy.

I wasn't suggedting the cam was in wrong. When you set the timing chain #1 is at tdc.... of the exhaust stroke. So you need to spin the motor one time before putting thedizzy in

BluFbdy · Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:21 am Post subject:

As in place it on the compression stroke;

BluFbdy · Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:59 pm Post subject:

soooo ive got the heater controls working, the power supply to the blower relay wasnt hooked up so thats cool. now its just the diagnostic mode thats the big problem. If fixing the diagnostic mode, resetting min air/tps doesnt fix the smoothness ill yank the dizzy again and restab on the compression stroke to be 110% sure its good