Cascade Crew

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:11 pm Post subject: Here Kitty Kitty Kitty

The heepster blew a pre cat apart. Luckily I found my progressive power loss. Bad news is it's $300 for the assembly, or 50-100 to a single little one.

I'm thinking about just gutting the damn pre cats.

I've done this with 4cyl cars putting headers on, but the "main" cat was a little closer than in the Jeep setup. I'd run the "rear" o2 behind the main cat. Anyone weigh in on if they think there will be an issue as far as lag to the o2?

I don't see anyone on the jeep forums doing this, but hey, it's a forum right?

Rolling Eyes

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:26 pm Post subject:

Pictar!

chevymad · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:27 pm Post subject:

Don't you have 2 rear o2s? I wonder how closely they have to follow the fronts? I've seen some newer cars use the rears to check the fronts. If the general rich/lean trend doesn't follow then it sets a code. What about trying the plug anti-fouler trick in the stock location?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:29 pm Post subject:

There was a olds from about the same era I worked on that had the front o2s in the header, and the rear o2 behind the main cat halfway down the chassis.

The rears are just there to validate cat function.

What's the anti fouler trick?

chevymad · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:33 pm Post subject:

I don't remember the vehicle I was working on when I got that code. But would be worried about the rear sensor testing combined banks. Otherwise factory would have cheaped out with a single to the rear. Trick is to use a spark plug antifowler to space the rear o2 out of the exhaust stream thus slowing it down.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:35 pm Post subject:

Ahhhh I've seen that tube extension of mustangs.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:57 pm Post subject:

Couple different ways guys are doing them. For $5 it's worth a shot. If it doesn't work I'll replace both cats anyway while I'm there.

Time to get guttin!

Dorman 42009

iansane · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:03 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:07 pm Post subject:

Like so?

chevymad · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:20 pm Post subject:

Looks ginormous but ya

chevymad · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:22 pm Post subject:

Not sure if u need both or not.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:31 pm Post subject:

Works on a Mazdaspeed3

iansane · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:09 pm Post subject:

If you have no clearance issues with the tunnel or anything surrounding the exhaust, run both.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:31 pm Post subject:

I don't think they were close to anything. Atleast I'll put it this way, I left them in the pipes when I dropped the exhaust and wasn't concerned with hurting them. LOL

chevymad · Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:10 pm Post subject:

When's the trial?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:57 pm Post subject:

Should get it back together tomorrow. I'll start with one extension a piece.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:16 pm Post subject:

One set didn't cut it. I'll try doubling up tomorrow.

If that doesn't work its try putting them behind the big kitty, or weld in some new ones.

Power is definitely up though!

chevymad · Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:20 pm Post subject:

Glad to hear on the power. I know you've been disappointed in it. Always wondered why the Cherokee felt so much stronger.. I've since discovered its way way lighter then a wrangler!

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:38 pm Post subject:

Much lighter. Then add bumpers, tires and a skid plate!

chevymad · Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:47 pm Post subject:

From the stock figures.. a stripper Cherokee weighs almost 1k lbs less then a loaded rubi!

Oh oh! How's the sound?