Cascade Crew

alloy · Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:34 pm Post subject: Adjustable prop valve

I finally got did the prop valve mod today and installed a SSBC adjustable prop valve in the line.

I had a heck of a time bleeding the brakes. On top of the valve it has a sticker that shows turning clockwise increases brake pressure, counter clockwise decreases. Just like most other pressure regulators I've seen screwing in increases pressure, out decreases.

With the valve all the way in I could not get any brake fluid through it at all. I unscrewed about half way out I got fluid out of it. After I got the brakes bleed I tried screwing it most of the way in like the sticker on the valve shows, and all I got for my trouble was my brake warning light is on now.

Has anyone else had problems with an SSBC valve like this?

Alphius · Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:45 pm Post subject:

When I need to bleed my brakes I turn the knob out like 5-6 turns to reduce the restriction in the line. Otherwise I can't really bleed my rears effectively. I keep track of how much I turn it out so that when I'm done bleeding I can turn it back to the proper balance.

After it's bled for the first time, I find a helper and a deserted gravel road and make emergency stops, then adjust the knob 'til my fronts lock a tiny bit before my rears.

Al Hasse · Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:07 pm Post subject:

I needed to bleed mine the same way, it's also by SSBC. Seems backwards as to the label on the knob.

alloy · Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:59 pm Post subject:

I saw you had the same valve in your swap thread pics. I'm glad I'm not crazy and you had the same experience.

So is all the way in that totally shuts off the pressure? Or is all the way out full pressure on this valve? Is the sticker right or wrong?

blue89 · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:10 am Post subject:

If you adjust it on gravel then the rear would lock on pavement. Do you still have your stock combo valve? I took mine out so the above is true. I then adjusted it on dry pavement with hard stops. Speaking of which, I haven't re adjusted since I put the big block or brake kit in... glad you reminded me!

Alphius · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:47 am Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:52 am Post subject:

No problem with mine. Its a ssbc too. Used dozens. I turn it to max rear pressure to bleed as that means its all the way open. If you setup on gravel be prepared to adjust on the street. Gravel has no traction so you don't get the proper weight transfer that plants the front of the car increasing front grip.

FYI

blue89 · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:46 pm Post subject:

The reason why I asked if you have the stock combo valve is because the combo valve has built in knee's to compensate for the weight transfer. The adjustable has one too but it's not designed for your car. I took mine out and next time I think I might leave it in. It's a compromise. Best 60-0 foot time I got was 135' with the V6. But that's with my old tires.

alloy · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:17 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the link to the info on the valve. I'm still playing with it. I don't have a lot of time during the week to do much other than turn the knob and see what happens.

Now I need to figure out how to reset the stock prop valve so my brake light goes off after running the adjustable valve in to full braking, which means NO pressure at all to the rears setting off my warning light.

I looked at a separate stock valve I have and pulled the back of it off. There is a spring loaded plunger in there. Push it in and it pops right back out. On TGO the general consensus is to stomp the brakes as hard as possible and it will reset. That didn't work for me.

chevymad · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:23 pm Post subject:

If the stomp and reset doesnt work.. you need to open a line to move the plunger in the opposite direction. An imbalance in pressure from front to rear pushes the plunger one way or the other.

alloy · Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:49 pm Post subject:

I'll give that a try as soon as I can find someone to push on the brakes for me. Hopefully this weekend maybe.

alloy · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:30 pm Post subject:

I called SSBC today and they told me it's basically backwords from a standard regulator. The "decrease" means decrease resistance to the pressure from the MC, increase means up the resistance to pressure from the MC. When I bought my valve from baxters there were no instructions. They said you don't need any, in is where the fluid comes in, out is to the wheels. Increase was more braking, decrease is less. I should gave known not to trust a 20 year old kid behind a parts counter.

Alphius · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:30 pm Post subject:

That's interesting labeling they've got there then. It does make sense, but kinda non-intuitive.

I will look when I get home, but I have a Summit branded one that is actually a re-badged Wilwood and as near as I can recall it's labeled a bit more clearly.