Cascade Crew

blue89 · Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:52 pm Post subject:

Ya what he said...

Looks good al!

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2320

How many horse power and torque is the new moter supposed to be Al?

Al Hasse · Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:28 pm Post subject:

I was told about 300hp, but I'm skeptical. Not sure about torque. That's probably at the crank. I was promised a build sheet, and I'll keep pestering him until I get it Razz

If someone on here has a desktop dyno program, I'd be very willing to let you crunch some numbers to find the theoretical power Cool

Alphius · Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:32 pm Post subject:

I think I still have desktop dyno around here somewhere, if you get the build sheet I'll run it all through for ya. Smile

I think you'd have to try pretty hard to not get at least 300CHP out of that combo. Very Happy

bAd DaWg 85 Z28 · Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 11:21 am Post subject:

Would be nice to know how much HP is making it to the ground Cool

Alphius · Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 12:07 pm Post subject:

We can estimate drivetrain loss by putting my engine in DD and seeing what the difference is between DD's numbers and my real wheel numbers, then apply that percentage loss to Al's numbers and estimate wheel HP.

But we all know DD is a poor estimator of a real engine anyhow. It'll just be bench racing numbers for fun. Then when Al gets her dyno'ed we can see how close it was. Very Happy

RSFreak · Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 3:56 pm Post subject:

iansane · Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 4:52 pm Post subject:

Dewey316 · Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 4:55 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 5:57 pm Post subject:

DD is worthless. You can't compare actual numbers. Just get a theoretical difference in parts.

Alphius · Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 5:59 pm Post subject:

Al Hasse · Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:54 pm Post subject:

I attached the accessories and brackets to the front of the block tonight using only a couple of bolts apiece, I still may have to move them to route the harness. EGR solenoid connector needs to be moved within the harness to the front of the motor, a little solder and shrink tube should do the trick there. The fan switch connector will no longer be pulled off by the dipstick moving around, the switch is on the front of the intake manifold now Razz

The exhaust is still hanging loose underneath because I haven't bolted the starter in place. I'm debating on whether to use my stock starter which still works well or to get one of those Brandon found - for $50, why not wait, I'll probably order one tomorrow Cool

After the exhaust gets put together, the rest of the A.I.R. stuff can be assembled up top.

fiveoformula · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:06 pm Post subject:

I wonder if relocating the fan switch to the manifold might change what temp the fan comes on, wouldn't the head tend to be hotter then the intake?

Al Hasse · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:24 pm Post subject:

Could be, but it's a lower temp switch anyhow. On at 200, off at 180. It can't be much different than putting a switch at the radiator like many do.

I'm hoping by Memorial weekend to be about complete, weather permitting (I'm outside). Just little things now, modify throttle cable bracket, extend and move EGR solenoid connector, shorten fan switch wire, change TPS connector to smaller round plug, install starter, install radiator and connect hoses among others.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 2:05 pm Post subject:

Where'd you find a on 200 off 180 fan switch? Part number?

Al Hasse · Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 3:37 pm Post subject:

Oops, typo. Still on the low side, on 200 off 185. SUM-890018 from Summit.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 4:59 pm Post subject:

Might work wonders for me an the Mazda. That should be a good setup for a 180t-stat I would think.

Al Hasse · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 5:32 pm Post subject:

I got a starter today from the link that Brandon posted. It came with a nice spec sheet with performance test results. Also the required bolts are included. I'll install tomorrow, then bolt up the rest of the exhaust, and work on the harness a little more.

A comparison of the old and new

And one sticker that kind of explains why it was so inexpensive

Al Hasse · Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 12:36 pm Post subject:

Things are moving slowly, but still some progress. I looked at the stock radiator and thought that this plastic tank single core thing isn't going to do the job. I'm having one built locally made with brass tanks and copper core, both of the radiator shops I talked to says this is the way to go as copper transfers heat twice as well as aluminum. My radiator will have 4 cores and should be ready next week.

chevymad · Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 4:50 pm Post subject:

They're kinda wrong about the aluminum thing. Yes it transfers heat better. BUT>>> because aluminum is stronger it can support a wider core tube and different fin arrangement, an aluminum radiator will shed heat faster then a brass one. That stock radiator has been cooling Mikes 383 for instance. Most of the time you'll see a 2 core aluminum radiator is able to cool a 600hp+ motor.

Anyway, nice thing with the copper/brass is that its totally rebuildable, and those tanks won't split like the plastic ones do. It's also good to have a new radiator to go with that new motor.