Cascade Crew

TurdGen1989 · Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:42 pm Post subject: spring removal

what all needs to be removed or steps for taking out springs? im not sure of all to remove

thanks guys

Dewey316 · Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:52 pm Post subject:

which springs?

iansane · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:32 am Post subject:

Valve springs for a 1973 super beetle.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:41 am Post subject:

Nonono... door springs for a 1984 diesel Oldsmobile. Very Happy

flea · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:22 am Post subject:

I once tried to remove the springs from queen size air mattress. Did go to well I'm sorry to say.

TurdGen1989 · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:56 am Post subject:

hahah i knew that was coming! suspension springs!

but possibly the one sticking in my lower back from my seat!

Al Hasse · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:58 am Post subject:

TurdGen1989 · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:04 am Post subject:

both

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:37 am Post subject:

Fronts:

Get the car way up in front. Remove tire. Remove brake caliper and hang with a wire. Unbolt sway bar from a-arm. Get a floor jack, a big heavy chain (I use my engine hoist chain), and a big Master lock.

Put the floor jack under the a-arm. Jack it up a little to remove tension on the strut. Unbolt the strut (will be a b*tch, get a cheater bar and some PB Blaster). Swing the strut up and out of the way, or just remove it (you really should get new struts if you're replacing the springs, or lowering the car).

Throw the chain loosely around the bottom two or three coils of the spring, and then loop it through the a-arm. Lock it with the Master lock. Make 100% sure it is not tight, and cannot become tight when the spring decompresses. This is a potentially fatal issue, and not to be taken lightly.

Slowly lower the floor jack, letting the chain keep the spring from popping out of the a-arm seat. The spring will decompress slowly, and pop out of the upper holder. The chain should not be tight, it is a safety device only. If it is, jack it back up, and loosen it by a few links. Unhook the chain, and let the spring drop out.

Put the new spring in it's seat in the a-arm. You will need to reuse the rubber isolators, or make your own out of 3/4" heater hose. The seat in the a-arm is notched for the end of the coil, so the spring can only go one way.

Loop the chain around it for safety. Use the jack to raise it slowly back up as you position it in the upper cup (a buddy to run the jack helps here).

Been years since I did any rears, so I'll let someone else post up on that. They were easier than the fronts, I remember that much. Razz

Al Hasse · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:55 am Post subject:

For the rears, just unbolt the shocks from the axle and jack the rear of the car letting the axle swing down, the springs will practically fall out.

91RSVert · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:59 pm Post subject:

zoomed over aarons post, looks corrct.

Only thing I didnt see, is that your front springs have to positioned correctly(called indexing), and this is done via the lower a-arm.

The end of the spring, needs to be between the two little holes in the channel for the spring.

Sounds confusing, but I think when you see the parts, you will understand what I typed.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:04 pm Post subject:

91RSVert · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:18 pm Post subject:

It is notched, but you can still put the spring in up to 180deg off, and it still take it. Much more then that, it trys to pop out.

Main thing is, if its not in right, it will make the car sit crooked. For every 1/4 at the spring, its approx 1/2 at the tire-fenderwell.

For ref, I just replaced springs in my 1ton. The left coil sagged .68inch. It was 1.75 at the tire-fender. Shocked

:edit: I also said I zoomed over it, which means I didnt read it all. Laughing

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:21 pm Post subject:

Hehe... when I bought my IROC the moron PO's had put the pass. side front spring in upside down and about 90* out from where it should have been. The car sat up one inch in that corner. I thought at first that they had only replaced one spring. Rolling Eyes

TurdGen1989 · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:27 pm Post subject:

ahhh god so much infoooo!!! lol

it sounds very confusing but im sure once i get everything taken apart it will start making sense... well so far i washed my car today! lol forgot it was white

RSFreak · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:02 pm Post subject:

Hey Aaron, why not use a spring compressor rather than a chain and lock? Why chain the spring to the a-arm? Confused

chevymad · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:05 pm Post subject:

Only reason for hte chain is so that it doesnt come flying out unexpectedly. You should probably still use a restraint even if using a spring compressor. If you ever see a spring come loose you'll be a believer.

I had a spring twist out of spring compressor once. I had a whole strut/spring assembly in a vice and had removed the holding nut. Spring shot 20ft in the air and made a mark in the roof.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:23 pm Post subject:

91RSVert · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:14 am Post subject:

I never used a compressor on an s10 or 3rdgen.

Doing my 1ton, you damn skippy I did!! And no, the tool didnt fit it properly either. The winding was to big a dia.

blue89 · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:34 pm Post subject:

No compressor here either. All my springs are cut though Laughing