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No heater core ???? possibly
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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:14 pm    Post subject: No heater core ???? possibly Reply with quote

I wonder what the harm would be if I disconnected the hot water lines leading to and returning from my heater core.??? My maro has been getting really hot lately and i'm thinking that if i do this the coolent will get circulated quiker and help keep me running cooler....
.
Does anyone have any ideas on this????

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Dewey316
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you still have the vacume valve hooked up, it shouldn't be circulating coolant to the heater core anway.

Another thing to consider, is that with the heater core, you have more coolant in the system, and the heater core also acts like a small radiator, your cooling should be better with coolant flowing to the heater core.
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cameron7710
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what he said ^^

now if u want to keep the engine cool turn your heater on full blast. only bad part is u might die from the heat

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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok sooooo not a good idea..!!!!
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Dewey316
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it is getting hot, i would start by making sure the cooling system is in good shape. Pressure test it, and flush it. Also, make sure your fan(s) are working and that the shrouds are there, along with the air-dam.
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aaron_sK
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dewey316 wrote:
Another thing to consider, is that with the heater core, you have more coolant in the system, and the heater core also acts like a small radiator, your cooling should be better with coolant flowing to the heater core.


+1 on this. I have personally shorted several heater cores due to leaks, or test setups. It causes quicker heatup, and slightly hotter temps overall.

On your carbed car, take a look at your timing curve, and your t-stat. Also, are you basing this off a stock gauge or idiot light?
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Twilightoptics
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

His car doesn't have Heater valve.
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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aaron_sK wrote:
Dewey316 wrote:
Another thing to consider, is that with the heater core, you have more coolant in the system, and the heater core also acts like a small radiator, your cooling should be better with coolant flowing to the heater core.


+1 on this. I have personally shorted several heater cores due to leaks, or test setups. It causes quicker heatup, and slightly hotter temps overall.

On your carbed car, take a look at your timing curve, and your t-stat. Also, are you basing this off a stock gauge or idiot light?

.
well I pulled the t stat out when i did the intake, How do i LOOK at my timing curve? I'm basing this off of the stock gage plus that when it's fully hot I'm having heat issues like hot stalls and vapor locking after stalls, not to mention not being able to shift into 1st or 2nd while stopped. I didn't have these spoblems when it was cooler.

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Dewey316
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you running it without a t-stat? if you are, put one back in.
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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dewey316 wrote:
are you running it without a t-stat? if you are, put one back in.

.
.
but doesn't running without one cause me to run cooler? I've done this to almost all of my cars with great success.

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aaron_sK
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No t-stat causes overheating. Coolant flows through the radiator so fast that it is not cooled by the air movement. Spend a couple bucks on a 160* stat and some orange goop, and you're good.
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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aaron_sK wrote:
No t-stat causes overheating. Coolant flows through the radiator so fast that it is not cooled by the air movement. Spend a couple bucks on a 160* stat and some orange goop, and you're good.

.

.
.
so is the best t stat for me to get a 160*degree one?

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Dewey316
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I honestly wouldn't go that cold. I would get like a 180-185 ish. Also, make sure you have the air dam on the car, and that your fan is working, and that you don't all the air out of the system. maybe a new radiator cap, if you aren't holding pressure.
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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dewey316 wrote:
I honestly wouldn't go that cold. I would get like a 180-185 ish. Also, make sure you have the air dam on the car, and that your fan is working, and that you don't all the air out of the system. maybe a new radiator cap, if you aren't holding pressure.

.
.
what is that ? what about the t-stat i pulled out, it's not frozen or anything?

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Twilightoptics
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What temp is the t-stat you pulled out?

The air dam is a plastic 6" x 2.5" plastic piece that hangs below the radiator to force air up into the rad.

Bypassing the heater core wont cool anything.


Not enough timing will cause you to heat up too. Also a worn out water pump can cause over heating.

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Al Hasse
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 89 has been missing the air dam underneath since I bought it. I've only overheated it once and that's when the fan motor ate itself. It indirectly forces air through the radiator by creating a low pressure area under the engine. I need to get off my butt one day a go get another.
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Twilightoptics
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My '85 IROC hated the freeway without the air dam. Especially on 90º+ days. Suprised yours doesn't! Mine even had the goofy hypertech chip that turned the fans on at like 100º.
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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twilightoptics wrote:
What temp is the t-stat you pulled out?

The air dam is a plastic 6" x 2.5" plastic piece that hangs below the radiator to force air up into the rad.

Bypassing the heater core wont cool anything.


Not enough timing will cause you to heat up too. Also a worn out water pump can cause over heating.

.
.
Paul, can you help me out with determining the timing?

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Twilightoptics
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure
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HONDASLAYER
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you available today Paul ?.?
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