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91RSVert Member
Joined: 16 May 2007 Posts: 2736 Location: AR
1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 3:30 pm Post subject: quarter panel replacement |
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Anyone here replaced a quarter panel? I'm looking to replace one of my quarters, inner fender, and rear body panel. Wondering if I should just take it to a shop and pay out the ass. Or if I should get a welder and give it a try myself?
I made a post on tgo, but havent gotten a response yet. As well one in the vert section about differences in the latch.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/body/498056-rr-quarter-questions.html
Any help or thoughts would be greatful. _________________ 2008 GMC Z71
1991 Camaro RS Vert
1972 Jimmy 4x4
20ft Longhorn Car Hauler
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chevymad Master B
Joined: 11 Jan 2004 Posts: 5476
1987 Pontiac Formula
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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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| It's very do-able. I've never done one on a third gen, but I did a few chevelles. Made some mistakes on the way. I see you have a junkyard 1/4. Thats good actually. .you can make most of your cuts inside where theres no body work to do. As with anything measure, measure and measure again before cutting.. but even if you mess up, welders can fix alot. You may want to figure out some bracing you can tack in before cutting the old quarter off. The velles i've done didnt need it because they were full frame cars. but you dont want things moving around. If you have to make any seems on visible parts of the quarter, try your best to stay away from any body lines. Its very hard to get those straight again after welding/grinding/filling. Big mistake I made on a 64 velle was welding in the new replacement panel as it came. The new panels are stamped from the top body line down.. So i had the whole upper body line messed up. I should have cut the new panel down and made the seam out on the flat part of the panel. Much easier to fix. |
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91RSVert Member
Joined: 16 May 2007 Posts: 2736 Location: AR
1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Yea, I cut that panel with the intentions of if I do it, taking both apart at the seams via the spot welds.... except the top which I plan to cut and weld under the spoiler.
two places I think will be "visable seams" is in the door jamb, and in the trunk area.
Biggest thing to me seems to be that I need to replace the inner fenderwell.... which is also the inner body where alot of the vert stuff welds to.
Any suggestions on a welder that will take gas, and flux-core wire(dual use). |
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chevymad Master B
Joined: 11 Jan 2004 Posts: 5476
1987 Pontiac Formula
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Lincoln or Miller. I've heard the millers are better now then the lincolns. I prefer to get one that has infinite adjustments to both heat and wire speed. That way you can really dial it in for different metals. But you can make do with a clicker type. I've got a lincoln 110 thats at least 20 years old now. Does everything i need it to do. Another one to look for if you dont have the budget for these 2, is a hobart. Hobart is supposed to be the same internally as the miller, but it has clicker type adjustments to make it a bit cheaper. If you arent welding anything over 1/4" and rarely that thick, then the 120v models will do the job. They're also quite handy because you can plug them in anywhere. If you're going to do any heavy welding, say building a car trailer or somethings get the 220 version. |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)

Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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| I've welded over 3/8" with my 110v Miller. A lot of it is in the joint prep. It's got infinite adjustments. I hate the Lincoln at work because it has infinite wire, but clicker voltage. Tips me over alot on certain thicknesses. |
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