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Wolffy Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2004 Posts: 375 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 1:37 pm Post subject: need input on which block to go with |
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alright im starting to keep an eye out for which block to use when i start building my new motor (whenever that is going to happen)
here is what im going to do with it
383 stroker
6-71 blower
low compression aluminum heads (probably)
ive heard splaying the mains is stronger than a 4 bolt main, if this is true then ill want a 2 bolt main & get it splayed
what about a 1 piece rear main? ( i know less chance of leaking)
ive got a block from my 94 PU, its not out yet, so i dont know if its 2 or 4 bolt yet
what year range or cast numbers and such is what i need to know.
thanxs
and yes i know ive been absent for a long time now. |
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rjmcgee The Hammer
Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2320
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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I would be more concerned about it being a roller block than being a 2 or 4 bolt main. |
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Wolffy Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2004 Posts: 375 Location: Spokane
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 2:58 pm Post subject: |
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thats why im asking for input here hammer |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Casting numbers wont always tell you. Alot of the truck blocks aren't finished for being a roller but have 1peice rear main.
Might be better off buying a new block from GM. It's all machined ready to go. You can get a 4 bolt 350 roller for a little over 1k. Less if you're in bed with the local GM parts guys.
Otherwise you just gotta go look at em. Don't think splaying is any more strong than a regular 4 bolt. The block isn't going to be the weakness unless your tuning is off. |
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izcain 9sec Club
Joined: 09 Sep 2006 Posts: 1306 Location: Port Angeles WA
1983 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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If you looking to build some serious HP then I would suggest looking for an older 010 block from pre 79 as they have a higher nickel content in the block and are less prone to distorting under severe hp applications. I would also say that with most applications you would be just fine with going with the standard 4 bolt main although I would recommend a set of ARP fastener throughout the motor! You would be amazed at how strong ARP main studs are. Of course this going to cost a little more for the conversion to roller cam but in the end you will have a much stronger block for building some serious power with! just my .02
What kind of budget are you working with? that will also determine, if you have no set limit and the sky is the limit I would say that you might even want to look into aftermarket blocks such as world products or dart.
Old school Roots bowers still look bad ass! _________________
1983 Z28 383 + 201ci more = New Heart for this season!
9.17 @ 148 |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:07 pm Post subject: |
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010 is the most common generic 350 block available. They were high nickel, low nickel, 2 bolt main, 4 bolt main.
You gotta look at em. |
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izcain 9sec Club
Joined: 09 Sep 2006 Posts: 1306 Location: Port Angeles WA
1983 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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Best thing is to run casting numbers and pull oil pans! _________________
1983 Z28 383 + 201ci more = New Heart for this season!
9.17 @ 148 |
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RSFreak The other "John"
Joined: 23 Jan 2004 Posts: 2946 Location: Renton
1989 Chevrolet Camaro RS
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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Twilightoptics wrote: | Less if you're in bed with the local GM parts guys.
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You down for this Ian?! _________________ '86 Trans Am - 5.0L TPI - LT1 cam - 700R4 - WS6
'85 Camaro Berlinetta - IROC clone
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