Cascade Crew

[Xophertony]

so i have everything i need with the exception of:
ROTORS. have yet to decide what i want to go with, i am reading on TGO that the stock GM ones have warping issues BIG TIME.

BOLTS. i have no idea what i need. i know i will need to modify my spindles, and i will need to tap threads into some things. i am reading through the FAQ on TGO but it is slow going and mostly about wheel fitment.

has anyone on here done LS1s before? what size bolts do i need for what? also what spacer am i going to need for my GTA wheels?

[iansane]

I'm using raybestos rotors and I don't have any runout yet. 56701 and 56700. As for bolts, whatever you tap the dust shield holes to (I did 'em at 12mm) and I think ~1.5"? The adapter bracket to carrier was something like a 14mm allen cap screw I think? Ha, I'm no help.

[Dewey316]

how much are you looking to spend Tony? and how much cool factor do you want?

I've heard good things about Stillen, or you could go the wicked cool route, and call up coleman racing, I bet coleman already has ls1 specs on file, and could build an aluminum hat 2 peice rotor for you.

[Xophertony]

john. i already have the hubs.
as far as coolness, i just want something will withstand another Canadian mountain rally, and will NOT warp. i don't need any fancy cross-drilled slotted stuff, just STRONG. it just needs to work, you know?
spend? well, not too much, how much do rotors cost? i would naturally like to spend as little as possible, but i would not be opposed to dropping like $300 if they are going to hold up. is that not enough? too-much?

IAN, i actually just read in the FAQ on TGO 12MM/1.75 X 30MM. is it going to matter 1.5 or 1.75?

[Dewey316]

Tony, I'm not talking HUBS, what you have is hubs. I am talking rotor hats.

Like this... see how the part of the rotor that fits over the studs, is seperate from the friction surface.

The nice part is, when you go to replace, you only replace the outer part, and can keep using the inner part.

[Xophertony]

ohhhhhhh..... neat. yeah i don't think i need anything custom made. but that looks sic

[Sellmanb]

Tony, at work we usually get rotors from CarQuest, they are cheaaap, and basically the same thing as Napa's mid-line rotors (we hardly ever sell GM rotors since they are around 250/rotor and last just as long as the rest of 'em)

[iansane]

FYI, the raybestos PG Plus line (the premium line) are $29 a rotor and if you get a newer set made within the last year every surface that doesn't see pad contact is powder coated black.

[Xophertony]

(Firefox spell checked it to that)--> schmucks sells these then eh? i might have to make a trip in there. did you ever use these rotors Ian? do they warp easy or no? have you ever had any come back warped? though hell, for that cost if they warp I'll use em as door stops and buy some good ones.

is there any way to guarantee i get a new-style set? if my local shcucks does not have any of the new style is there a way for you to get ahold of them? i would not mind driving up to your location. i will be up there visiting my mom in twoo weeks anyway, but that will be cutting ti a little close for cows.

powder coated black would look real great behind my wheels. all my parts are ether powder coated silver or painted black at this point. with the exception of my brushed aluminum calipers

also i found out i need 3/16" wheel spacers to run my front GTA wheels. i wonder if there is a way i could run rears on he front? (rotational the cheap way)

[iansane]

You'll be able to spot the difference, the newers ones have updated graphics on the box and black labels where as the old ones have no graphics and blue labels. It should be fairly easy to get the newer ones because there aren't too many of the c5 rotors in stock even at the Depots. When I ordered the set for mine I the big NW depot was out of stock for two weeks. So yeah, I'm using them. Just not the newer powdercoated ones. But I would assume the metallurgy hasn't changed.

[Sellmanb]

Tony, the GM rotors come powdercoated silver. The powdercoating wears off after one run around the block, but it keeps the parts that dont see pad contact nice and rust free, adds a much cleaner look. (just didnt want you thinking it was going to stay black and then be like WTF? )

[Quasi-Traction]

Tony,

If you want some help with this swappity swap, as soon as you get all your parts gathered, I'll be happy to pitch in a hand.

[Xophertony]

Ian, C5 rotors? i am doing 98-2002 Camaro/Firebird brakes. not LS1-corvette brakes. the calipers are the same save for the "corvette" lettering, but i do not know if the rotors are.

Bobby, i am aware that the friction surface is not going to be black. but the rest of it will be and that will look cool.

Chris, hell yeah. it will be fun. and good experience for when we put LS1 front brakes on your car right?

[Quasi-Traction]

[iansane]

D'oh. For some reason I read ls1 and just thought c5. They use a 12.5" rotor, right?

The ls1 rotor is double the price. $60 per.

[Xophertony]

ha, yeah funny. .... wait you are joking right?

Chris. if they will clear GTA wheels they will clear IROCs. in fact, in my reading it seems they will clear IROCs w/o any type of spacers at all.

[iansane]

No. Not joking. I just checks partsamerica.com which is usually cheaper than in store and it was $59.

[Xophertony]

awww.... weak.

[Xophertony]

so what about brake pads? just the usual ceramic "low noise" "long life" ones at the auto parts store or should i get something special? i would like a low-dust pad as well. my main priority is stoping power, they can't suck, after that noise is my next concern, with dust coming in third.

[Twilightoptics]

Hawk Performance Brake Pads : HPS Part: HB249F.575

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HWK%2DHB249F%2D575&N=700+115&autoview=sku