Cascade Crew

Red Bird · Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:56 pm Post subject: Low buck autocross preperation

So ive got the Bird tucked away for the winter, want to mod the suspension to get her handling a bit better for the next autocross season. I run in F-stock and the club i run with sticks to scca rules. So i can mod the shocks, brake pads, front sway bar add a cat back/K&N, and thats pretty much it. This is going be a budget build i have a kid on the way, so i want to get the car set up before she comes in march, cuz after then i dont think i'll have any dough or time for more mods till the summer. I already got a set of Kuhmo Ecsta ASX's (225 60 R15) all the way around. For the money these tires are pretty damn good! I was thinking KYB GR2 struts in the front, gas adjust in the back. any suggestions on pads? also is there any way to tell if a junkyard thirdgen has a bigger front bar than the stock one on my 91 bird without getting under and measuring? any other ideas on cheap mods to make the bird handle would be most appreciated. Anything that came from the factory on 82-92 cars can be put on my car and still be "stock"

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 11:26 pm Post subject:

find yourself a set of ws6 springs from a performance model. they came stock and are much stiffer than the base model springs.

~JAKE

Xophertony · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:17 am Post subject:

you gotta crawl under and measure. a Trans AM or Formula will usually have WS6, which gets a 24MM 34MM combo. but not all T/As and Formies have WS6. you can measure really quickly, just bring a crescent wrench, and a ruler. Cool

blue89 · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 7:18 am Post subject:

if you want to compete in f-stock, I'd definetly just replace the front/rear springs and sways. It all depends on what you want though! What does the car do in a corner now? Does the back come out or is the front pushing out?

Dewey316 · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:55 am Post subject:

In F-stock, it is all about shocks/tires/driver. If you can save up the money for Koni's DO IT. Then if you can get a set of V710's for the season, that will make all the diffrence.

91RSVert · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:59 am Post subject:

Subframes if you can.

Get the stiffer springs as mentioned.

Then I'm actually going to say, leave your swaybars as they are! Mine with stiffer rear springs and 24mm sway was pulling the right rear up in cornors. So stay stock.. or get a varity of sizes and go play in an EMPTY parking lot prior to racing with a friend watching your car, or driving and you watch.

Wonderbar

KYB GR2 is what I have now on both my cars. Stiffest I could find over the counter. But they will beat you to death on daily driving. Konis but they will cost you a few coins.

Learn, and learn, and learn your tire pressure.

LSD rear axle if you dont already.

If you can get some curb checked 16" rims, then go get some used down to tread bar sticky tires.

If you have access to TGO, search on the astro van steering shaft. then go do it.

Dewey316 · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:09 am Post subject:

SFC's will toss you straight into SM or CP in our cars, if he wants to stay in F-Stock or ESP, he can't do subframes.

I say don't mess with anything, other than shocks and tires in F-Stock.

blue89 · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 11:04 am Post subject:

Wheels made big difference for me. Check your rules though. Some say only stock option wheels, other give you a width and diameter.

I'm with 91vert, tire pressure is key. Especially if you have an open rear.

How big is the course? If you have a small course with lots of tight turns, it would help you to give the car a little toe-out. It will make the car squirmy on the straights but it will turn like mad depending on how much toe it gets.

91RSVert · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 11:23 am Post subject:

blue89 · Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:21 pm Post subject:

That seems to be a big factor in autocrossing. The winners don't care where you are, as long as you aren't a threat! I don't mind going through the rules with you if you have questions, just send a link.

Red Bird · Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:41 pm Post subject: Koni Yellows

So i scored a set of koni yellow struts and 2 front intrax lowering springs on craigslist when i was visiting seattle over thanksgiving for $150. there was a catch, the tang on top one of the struts that you twist to make the strut softer or firmer has been pushed into the strut body, called koni and they said they could fix the tang that sticks up for about 150+shipping. I'll save the 2lowering springs to use someday. so im pretty stoked! the only problem is that the guy i bought them from took out the struts with the strut mounts attached and just gave me the whole assembley, leaving the 7/8 inch nut on both struts attached. (He was parting out the car but got it from someone else, I think he smashed the tab in trying to remove the strut with a socket that was too short)i just tried to remove the nut attaching the strut to strut mount, but the way koni yellows are, you can adjust the firm/soft on top, and you can adjust rebound by compressing the strut and then twisting until you feel noticable clicks. so with the strut uncompressed the nut on top just spins when trying to loosen the 7/8 nut. im thinking im gonna have to just hit it with a impact and cross my fingers(if my mess them up i'll just rebuild both of them) any other ideas? anyone familiar with the strut insallation/removal process on Koni yellows?