Cascade Crew

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:59 am Post subject: Static load?

finally assembled the engine stand I got for xmas today, but there are a couple things I was wondering:

This stand is the type that bolts to the back of the bellhousing flange. I have the piece that rotates removed off the stand and bolted into the back of the bellhousing flange. I just grabbed what I had lying around and I'm afraid the bolts will break when I try to pick the motor upright. I'm sure doing this is a bad idea, but I don't have a engine hoist, so this seems to be the safest method of lifting it onto the stand.

The block is basically bare, but has heads and an intake manifold attached. The stand is rated to a 1000LB capacity, so I know the stand itself is solid enough, I'm just worried about the bolts, since they'll be bearing a good part of the load.. what grade/strength bolts should I have threaded into the block itself?

mrpopo573 · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:02 pm Post subject:

We had the same issue. Nice Engine Stand, quasi nice bolts that came with. My dad went and got Grade A steel bolts with a static load capacity of 2500 lbs or something like that.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:08 pm Post subject:

yeah, I'm thinking anything less than bolts rated with a 2000lb capacity each, would be uncivilized. Plus I'm basically assembling the stand and then standing on the back of it to pick the motor up.

maybe I should wait until I have a second set of hands to lift the front a bit... Shrug

either way, I should go get some ARP bolts or grade A zinc coated fasteners.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:49 pm Post subject:

You can go get 4 grade 5 bolt that are of sufficient length with washer to engage lots of threads of the block... and not have any problems whatsoever with a fully assembled motor.

If you're concerned, get grade 8.

Anything more is overkill.

QwkTrip · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:02 pm Post subject:

If you intend to use the bolts again and again, then get a high grade of 6 or 8. My best advice is get American made bolts. Chinese metals are terrible.

I use the same method. It's a lot easier to align the pilot hole with the engine unsupported than trying to attach 4 bolts. You and a buddy should be able to lift the engine in place. I did it by myself once with an assembled short block but I won't try that again. Once I stood up with the engine in my hands it came down to a simple choice: Either get it on the engine stand or lose my feet dropping the engine. I chose to get it on the engine stand.

kenf729 · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:06 pm Post subject:

When I built my 350, here's how I attached it to the stand...I removed the heads, intake, oil pan, pump, (basically made it lighter) and lifted the short block on the back of my truck (table woud work as well) the height was just right to mount to the stand...food for thought...

Dewey316 · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:12 pm Post subject:

get a hoist and save yourself the hernia.

FWIW, the audi motor is held in with grade 5 bolts right now, I don't reacall what we used for Mikes motor. If you worry about it at all, spend the extra $0.25 and get grade 8, then you will at least sleep well.

Did I mention to get yourself a hoist?

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:33 pm Post subject:

well, she's got some grade 8's in there now. I hope they hold.

This thing is WAAAAAY to heavy and akward to lift by myself. definately going to be a 2-3 man job getting this thing on the stand.

Unfortunately I dont have the luxury of a hoist, but I do have a plan of how three guys can get it on there, just have to find the other two guys....lol.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 3:57 am Post subject:

It's all a matter of leverage.

blue89 · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:03 am Post subject:

I do the same method, attach the removable swivel part and attach it to the motor, then lift the motor and put it on the stand. But I mainly do V6's so I don't have to worry about the weight! MAKE SURE you get proper thread depth. All the Grade 2000 bolts in the world wont help you if you have the bolts 2 threads in.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:17 pm Post subject:

I have 4 bolts in it

all 2 1/2" length. I have the same grade bolts that are a 1/2 Inch longer and I threaded them in as far as they would go, and still had about 1/4" I would have had to shim up.

Leverage? It seems do-able, but I need someone to boost the front a bit.

*sigh*

Round 2.

QwkTrip · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:26 pm Post subject:

You're going to install an engine by hand? Beg, borrow, or spend the $200 to get a proper engine hoist. Someone will get hurt badly - likely hands and fingers getting crushed. You can even rent one at a tool rental store.

If you were closer to Richland, WA then I would gladly let you borrow mine!

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:27 pm Post subject:

NHRA427 · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:53 pm Post subject:

I was just wondering about the first question. Was it about the bolts to hold the engine to the stand? Heres a question about a chain hoist, would you use a 2x4 on its side or laying face down? My uncle, thats down well over 300 engines was using 2 2x4s on the face between 2 joists and I about died. But he did that for a long time. Never had a problem even with big block fords and chevys hanging there. One thing he told me is the grade 5s will bend into a U but the the grade 8s will snap off. Anyway I have used cheap grade 5s for my stands and never had a problem.

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:33 pm Post subject:

hmm...

we'll its got zinc coated grade 8's in the back of it, threaded as far in as the tapped threads in the block would allow.

The motor just needs to go from being in an upright positon on the floor to the stand.

its basically a bare block with heads and an intake on it. Can't be more than about 350-400lbs. I think the bolts should hold fine.

chevymad · Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:53 pm Post subject:

Those bolts would probably hold the whole vehicle. You know many cars only have 3 bolts holding the engine trans in. And all the power you build even with a BB goes through only 3 3/8 flexplate bolts. Even grade 5s are way stronger then you'd need.

However.. a chinese engine stand almost seems to be made of macaroni at times. After leaving my 454 on my 1000lb stand for a week, I had to take it off and set it on the floor.. Stand had settled about 2"

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:34 am Post subject:

yikes, I think mine is a Harbor Freight special....I'll keep my eye on it.

however my engine will be a couple hundred pounds lighter than a fully assembled 454.

rjmcgee · The Hammer Joined: 08 Jan 2004 Posts: 2328

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 12:16 am Post subject:

mah, I'm just too lazy, although next term at school I'll have some time in the Fab shop to do my own projects.

working on a rolling transmission stand, crossmember for my car (copying a one paul made with smaller steel)..and whatever else I so desire.

Stand seems to be holding just fine, had a little assitance today from my dad and tony on getting the motor up and onto the stand, and nobody got hurt, which is always good.