Cascade Crew

[Quasi-Traction]

some good news and some bad news today:

1) Went to Home Depot and bought a set of Bolt-outs. Had to borrow my buddy Joel's small plug-in drill, because everything I had was too big to get between the framerail, K-member, and Sway Bar. Destroyed two drill bits drilling through the bolt, but I managed to finally punch through..I think I may have done some damage to the threads around, but I don't know yet.

2) punched the Bolt-out in, and its in there nice and snug. Unfortunately since those bolt out's have some ungodly tinsle strength; I Shreaded three 4.5mm sockets, two tap wrenches, and shreaded the grip off a set of locking pliars. I might have moved that bolt out one whole turn in the course of that.

3) Carnage isn't over....took the last NAPA pump out and was all ready to put my brand new shiny Carter in. Well....apparently I did a less than fantastic job getting the old pump seated properly...and it sat on the end of the pump arm, putting a nice indentation in it and chunk out of the end of the pump arm. The pump as far as I can tell should still be usable fortunately the damage is far enough away from where the rod is supposed to seat.

4) Because of aforementioned misalignment of the fuel pump, I put a nice healthy bend in the pushrod for it. I can't imagine what kind of damage is on the cam now....I have another pushrod for it, but I would definately like some help this time seating the pump. Its been a giant fight these last three times doing it by myself, and now because of this I don't trust myself to do it alone.

Please, someone....

I couldn't get that neat bolt trick paul told me to work either. The Rod won't push far enough up into the block past it.

I don't know what kind of damage is done to the cam, but if everything else goes together and fuel Pressure seems weak, I'll have to get a new cam.

F__K!!

[rjmcgee]

When you get back to reasembly take the pump push rod out and coat it with some wheel bearing grease. Push it up against the cam and the grease will keep it there while you install the pump. Make damn sure that your hole you drilled through the bolt didn't exit the side of the bolt in there and leave you with part of a hole in the bolt and part of the hole in the block. If you break that easy out your screwed as it is 100 times harder than any drill bit on this planet.

[chevymad]

You shove the rod all the way up then put a long threaded bolt in the upper bolt hole Paul told you about. You thread the bolt down till it tightens down on the side of the rod. Holding it up there. Rod's trick also works, especially as cold as it is out now. If the grease gets warmed up at all then it will have a tendency to slide.

Rod's right about the easy out, if you break that you'll either need a cobalt bit, or a torch to remove it. If you drilled through the side of the bolt the easy out will be trying to grip the block and not the bolt. Makes it much much harder to remove.

You actually bent the rod itself? I can't imagine that happening. I've seen bent pumps though. Since the bend is on outside end and wouldnt prevent the rod from coming out, only going in, I doubt the cam was hurt. You're car isnt a roller motor is it? The cam in a roller motor requires a different pushrod then non rollers. If I remember right the roller motors have a brass tip on the pushrod.

[alloy]

When I owned my machine shop I removed literally hundreds of broken bolts and easy outs. Cobalt bit didn't work that well for me, solid carbide did. But they break easily, and you need pressure, lots of pressure to push the bit into the easy out, not to mention coolant. If you have carbide, pressure, and coolant, easy outs are "easy" to drill. You may try a carbide tipped drill bit, they aren't broken as easily, and will take some side loading where solid carbide won't. You can also use a stick as a lever to put against the drill to get some extra pushing force.

[Quasi-Traction]

EXCELLENT NEWS!!

Got most of the old bolt out, I didn't drill 100% straight, but the last 3-4mm of the end of the bolt out broke off and are stuck inside the hole.....

I found a solution, I retapped the bolt hole to accept a 10mm fine thread bolt that's shorter than the orginal..I can't quite get super snug, but it holds and there doesn't seem to be any oil leak coming from there. Haven't had a chance to test it under load though.

I also decided that I was a giant idiot...the fuel pump bolt trick I always thought was supposed to hold the rod above where you put the longer bolt in......did the trick and the fuel pump went in no problem.

Thanks Brandon, Rod, Paul and Dan for the handy tips. I think I got a little lucky.

The hard line that goes from the pump to the carb filter inlet has a leak at the pump even with teflon tape on it.

I'm just going to opt for braided lines and re-route them. Anyone know the correct size I should be looking for fittings? I know the "heads" are 5/8" but I don't know much about AN equilivancy and thread and pitch.

Anyways, I'll see if I can figure my Wiper and exhaust situation here. The race is on!!