Cascade Crew

[Danked]

would anyone mind telling me in simple english terms what a torque converter does, like, whats the difference between a stock and a 1800 stall?

[aaron_sK]

Acts as a barrier between the engine flywheel, and the tranny. Basically it's a fluid-filled donut, with an impeller inside of it. Assuming it's a lockup converter: when the engine is running below lockup, the two halves are spinning freely, however the fluid buffer means that the engine never fully locks onto the tranny. This is how automatic cars don't stall when you idle in gear.

Once the engine RPM reaches a certain point (stall speed), the converter locks up so that the tranny is basically locked to the flywheel.

Stock converters lock up just above idle speed. Aftermarket ones vary, however the idea of running a high stall speed meant to cause lockup closer to peak torque. In a street app, it's a good idea to keep it under 2500-3K. I run one that locks just after 2K, and it works pretty well for hard street driving with my TPI.

Your V6 probably wont need anything more than stock, and the $500 can be much better spent.

Edit: Actually, you could just read this: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

[Danked]

i did read that already but i dont understand, i want like an 1800 stall i found one for $150

[aaron_sK]

Meh. It's a bear. You gotta pull the tranny, dump the fluid, remove the converter, fill the new converter, refill the tranny, change the gasket, and then reinstall the tranny back in the car. All for a V6 car.

[Danked]

yeah i know, had to do it on my dads 96 dodge intrepid 3.5 cause the clutches burned out in his tranny, mine needs to be rebuilt anyways, slips sometimes, i plan on a torque converter, and a transgo shift kit when hes rebuilding it

[aaron_sK]

Good man. That's the time to do it.

What's the going rate for a full rebuild now anyway? Around $1200?

[Danked]

idk but im putting that stuff in, new flex plate, and when wanrunhard returns my current engine when its pulled, im putting it on an engine stand in my shed and rebuilding it with the strongest stuff i can find, so when i blow this other motor ill have another to drop right in

[aaron_sK]

Uhhh.... not sure were you're going to find forged 3.1 parts.

[Danked]

i only meant like high comp pistons, strong push rods, strong connecting rods, strong lifters, just simple but strong stuff

[aaron_sK]

Why? A 3.1 should not be beaking parts unless you have a serious head/cam/intake.

[Danked]

when i first bought my car, i pulled the dipstick, the watery oil hadn't been changed in 2 years (about 30k miles) i flushed it, then changed it, drained tranny fluid, about 2 quarts only drained out, and was blacker than the 30k old oil, i figure im prolly gonna do this with the new motor too so it'll hopefully last me another 11k miles, thats all i got out of this engine in 5 months, i want something thats hard to bust, so i dont have to keep maintaining it, and while im rebuilding my engine, ill learn how to do it, so if i ever need to do it again on another car im ready

[aaron_sK]

Still, there's no reason to go over the top for a basically stock engine. And as for not maintaining it, good luck with that. Doesn't matter if you have Little M with an Eagle 4340 rotating assembly, or a frikkin Geo, you still have to maintain it.

Hell, about the only engine that could actually run without any maitinence at all was the Mopar slant-6. That thing would run with no water and about two quarts of dirty oil.

[Xophertony]

[Dewey316]

[Schultzy89GTA]

[Dewey316]

[Xophertony]

ha! yeah.... oh well. that is the first rule of posting on a message board. you can't spell everything correct. it's not right.

[Quasi-Traction]

[Xophertony]

thanks chris, i was unaware of that. i should get on that then... i have put 41K on that car since i got it... and i beat the shizzle out of that tranny, or atleast did in the past. should probably do my rearend again too.