Cascade Crew

[Raiden]

I have my NX kit hooked up to a 30 amp relay and the relay keeps going bad? What gives? I had the arming switch on the other day, with the bottle turned off. My Z just flat out died! After seeing my soleniods were hot, turns out my 30 amp relay was bad. I replaced the relay, and today, the car was bogging really bad as I pulled into my drive way. I knew it was getting fuel from the soleniod. Then, it stopped? Put it in the garage, headers were hot! Now, I put a fuse in the positive feed line to the 30amp relay.

The only two things that are different than the stock setup is that my power wire to my arming switch is comming from my other 30 amp relay for my bottle heater. Both 30 amp relays are separate except for the power from the heater 30amp relay to my arming switch. I have my ground on a hobbs switch so I get soleniod activation @ 4psi to limit wheel spin.

Any ideas?

Thank you in advance:)

I posted this on camaroZ28.com too

[Raiden]

Well, I've been swamped with school and have yet to have much time to play with my Z. But I checked all the wiring and it is correct for my NX kit. I continue to blow 30 amp relays like there is a short in my system, but there is NO shorts!

I was thinking the soleniod was bad. I disconnected the wires to check the ohms to each soleniod and I measured zero resistance. Now, are my soleniods bad due to zero resistance telling me I have an open cirucit? Or is this normal? Or do I need to check my ohms by connecting the wires, then turn on the power, then check the ohms?

[Dewey316]

Can you draw a schematic of what you are doing?

[Raiden]

Hey Dewey, How the heck have ya been? I have been so freaking busy due to school and remodeling our home, man o man, it seems to never end!

Well, the 30 amp relay is hooked up as follows;
30 Power
87 to solenoids
86 to arming switch
85 to hobbs switch.

I measured the ohms and I got 00.4 on the NO2 soleniod and 4.8 on the fuel soleniod. I think the NO2 soleniod was bad from teh get go! Of the 4 times I took my Z out this year, The first time I got on the laughing gas it was pretty fast. However, the second, thrid time i got on the NO2, not much different than without the gas???

Now, check out what happend today! After finding what little extra time I have, I inspected all wiring for shorts. I found none! Then, I replaced the 30 amp relay for the 3rd time. As I was doing this, I got a phone call. I ran upstairs for about 5-7 minutes. I came downstairs and my NO2 soleniod was smoking with some brown residue on the sides. It was FREAKING HOT! I had left the arming switch in the ON position, but that should not have caused this whole mess! I disconnected the power to the arming switch. Soon after, I started my car, don't worry, the bottle was off:D, my car started and ran fine. I went to turn the car off and removed the keys, but the car continued to run!!! I found a fuse in the fuse panel that had become very hot, however, for some strange reason that fuse did not blow? It was a green 30 fuse in the upper right of hte fuse box (accessory). I pulled the fuse which shut the car off.

So NOW WHAT???
DO I need to get a new fuse panel? Or HOW can I fix the problem of my car not turning off with the accessory fuse in the panel?
I replaced the fuse with a new one, started the car, purrz like a kitten, BUT with the fuse in the car will not turn off. This fuse is the fuse that allows you to turn on the rear hatch release and dome lights. I can run the car without the fuse and it runs and turns off, but I really don't want to run my car without it functioning properly.

As far as my NX soleniod, I am sure it was bad from the get go! I just hope race parts direct or NX will honor their product workmanship and not try and blame me for the defective part. I got the NX kit last summer, but I've been installing the kit in little segments since September. It was finally fully installed during the christmas break. Since then, I have had nothing but troubble with teh darn thing