Cascade Crew

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:33 pm Post subject: How to brake in an engine:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Good reading. Mike, from Lewis Racing Engines states on the above:

"Well, I didn't know they were "secrets",, but I can tell you that his dyno recommendations are almost exactly what we have been doing for years & it works for me.
I warm the engine while varying speed with no load for about 20 minutes, put it under a light load from about 2000-3500 for another 5-10 minutes, (the dyno will cycle it between these set points for as long as you want) shut it off & check the filter & readjust the valves if necessary.
Start it back up, do a few lighter pulls to 4000, then 5000, 6000 etc depending on what it is, then hammer it & see what happens
Most times you smile ,,, sometimes not,,,, "

Schultzy89GTA · Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:58 pm Post subject:

Excellent Paully! See you later Wink

-Schultzy

Gibby85 · Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:34 am Post subject:

Good info.

Schultzy89GTA · Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:11 am Post subject:

Well I used that technique. We'll see what happens in the long run I suppose.

-Schultzy

CheezX · Member Joined: 16 Jan 2004 Posts: 90

I used that too.

The GMPP break-in instructions have something similar to that. A few light throttle runs, medium throttle, then heavy throttle.

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

Not to question this article... it looks like it's great information! But it also seems that this is for "factory bored" engines. Not a bore job that you get from a machine shop.

He states in the article something about how the factory's now days use a much better machining process that is much finer than the older machining processes.

This would leave me to believe that this article is only meant for brand new factory engines.

I hope someone will prove me wrong though... I'll take any excuse I can to drive like an asshat when I get the car running again (couple months I think Smile

).

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

^^^ still curious

Schultzy89GTA · Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 1:28 pm Post subject:

IMHO it doesn't make any difference whether this is a factory fresh engine or a fresh rebuild. What do you think would be different in the sealing properties of new rings in a block machined or honed by a machine shop vs. new rings in a factory fresh block?

-Schultzy

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

That's what I'm asking Smile

lol.

I know that the factory typically has a lot better equipment for all different parts of the cars, so I was curious if their "bore machine" was more precise than the machine shops. It says that the bore grooves are a lot closer from the factory now days than they were way back when, which is why playing hard on the engine to break it in is a better idea. I was just curious if the same technology had jumped into machine shops.

Midnight Sun · Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 1:02 pm Post subject:

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 11:43 pm Post subject:

Midnight Sun · Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 11:34 pm Post subject:

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

nope, it made a lot of sense that the machine shops wouldnt be "stuck" with the same equipment for a decade (+/-), so they could get better equipment without any downfall (except their wallets of course lol)

Schultzy89GTA · Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:50 am Post subject:

I hear ya... I guess I was just looking at it from the perspective that regardless of how sophisticated the machinery is (robotics for example) in the end analysis your are boring a hole x size. If said hole measures out to be x size then it is all good Thumbs up

-Schultzy