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MrMike98 Member
Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 4:23 pm Post subject: T56 swap help |
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i just completed it 96' T56 w new 4th gen hyd. and pedals. new PP/clutch and FW
when i started car first time no problems-untill---
i pushed in the clutch pedal close to bottom there was a scrapping sound from bellhousing area-release clutch pedal no noise- only when pedal is close to 3/4 travel or greater...
wow i thought this would be a LOT easier to do.
any help.
thanks
mike |
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MrMike98 Member
Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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OK so it seems my 2 problems are related..starter issues and clutch noise .
when i depress clutch fully the pedal stops do to something internal to bellhouseing--pedal stops JUST enough to allow the clutch start switch to engauge but not enough to start.. when i depress switch fully with my hand -car starts no problem..
and i can see that the pedal is not on the stop.
when running when u depress clutch to the floor it hits(grinds)on something internal to BH.
so i think there must be a problem at the slave/arm/throwout bearing interface???
if i remove slave I THINK it will spring apart and be a pain at best to put together/bleed..
any EASY way to tell?? ...cause if i have to pull trans-it might not happen.
need motivation--this swap was easy on paper..
advice please
thanks
Mike |
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aaron_sK Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006 Posts: 8834 Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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The slave shouldn't "spring apart" unless you actuate the master while it is unloaded.
I agree with you that the problem is probably that the fork is not over the throwout bearing correctly, or that the throwout is somehow not engaged correctly with the pressure plate tangs.
If you pull off the slave spacer off the bellhousing you can take a look along the fork, but I am not sure if you would be able to spot anything. |
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iansane Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2004 Posts: 5740 Location: Bothell
1991 Pontiac Trans Am
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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Is the fork backwards? _________________
Quote: | Sometimes I actually think I'm slightly retarded in the mouth. |
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MrMike98 Member
Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 11:44 am Post subject: |
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the issue is with the fork
the spring steel clip held to fork with rivit.
its bend up badly and looose-it has been in contact with PP...and limits travel
when i got the trans, the guy said he had a hard time seperating trans from motor,
said he had to force it apart from engiine----
he forgot to disengauge the fork and broke the spring steel clip removing trans....
I did not ever remove fork from trans, so i transferred that issue to me...
well -new fork, pivot and bolt on the way..
i will install 4-5" long bolts to slide trans back just enough to remove and install arm/bolt but still keep trans lined up to engine for easier re-install..
sounds good on paper...lol... |
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iansane Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2004 Posts: 5740 Location: Bothell
1991 Pontiac Trans Am
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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You can install the pivot bolt completely before putting the trans in place. Once the trans in up and in slide the fork in place from the hole where the slave bolts on. _________________
Quote: | Sometimes I actually think I'm slightly retarded in the mouth. |
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aaron_sK Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006 Posts: 8834 Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:50 am Post subject: |
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I would leave the pivot alone unless it is obviously damaged. I suspect the fork clip took the brunt of it. |
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MrMike98 Member
Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:27 am Post subject: |
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i have ordered the fork,pivot block and bolt--so i might just as well use them..
unless
is there something about changing that pivot block ???
Just take off the old bolt-install new block-arm and bolt..
seems easy-so what am i missing???
thanks for the help
M |
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aaron_sK Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006 Posts: 8834 Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 11:04 am Post subject: |
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You're not missing anything, it's just going to be a pain with the trans partially installed.
Usually you do what Ian said and set it all up outside the car, then slide the fork onto the pivot. Not having done it upside down in the trans tunnel I can't say how much harder it will be. |
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Twilightoptics Hardcore (12sec Club)
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Posts: 9191 Location: Auburn , WA
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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You guys are weird. Fork in after install? Does it even fit that way on a lt1 style? I know it wont on a t5 _________________ A redline a day keeps the carbon away! |
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aaron_sK Member
Joined: 23 Jan 2006 Posts: 8834 Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton
1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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That's because the LT1 has the world's stupidest clutch setup. The throwout bearing clips into the pressure plate tangs so you have to slide the fork onto the throwout bearing after the trans goes in.
The issue is that IIRC you can't entirely remove the fork through the access cover on the bellhousing, just slide it on and off the pivot, so Mike will be disengaging the trans at best, and possibly removing it entirely. |
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MrMike98 Member
Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 231 Location: Bremerton
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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I will call it a success
got the new parts and they are installed...
car starts as normal, no noise from clutch at any time
and my pedal pressure is normal-it was very very heavy before....
now on to see if car actually go's in gears and moves....
1 step at a time..
thanks for the support and help
mike |
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