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mechanic says...
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Quasi-Traction
"I have petals"


Joined: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 3873
Location: stumptown

1986 Chevrolet Camaro Berlinetta

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Asdfga3 wrote:
Did Chevy even make a 90* RWD V6? I've only seen those 3.0-3.8 in FWD's.


Yes...the base F body motor beginning in 1997 was a 3.8L V6.

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aaron_sK
Member


Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doh! I'm being stupid. I completely forgot about the 4.3. Laughing

I didn't know they changed the V6 at the end of the F-body run, though. I thought they ran 3.4's all the way up till '02.
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blue89
Member


Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 3482
Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a real PITA! The aluminum intake doesn't let you run a distributor, so you have to convert to DIS. Other than that, its all good. But the FWD pistons are different than the RWD pistons because the alum heads run a smaller combustion chamber. Stock they flow 160cfm. Pretty good since my P&P job will get me about there with the iron heads. I was going to do it, but thats a lot of work.
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you swithc to FWD aluminum heads and internals (pistons) you can still use a 2.8 manifold and MPFI intake. then you can keep your dizzy. there was also a guy on TGO who milled the back of the FWD intake off (it was a hollow section, not a runner) to make a dizzy fit, just to prove he could. Smile
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Danked
Banned


Joined: 10 May 2006
Posts: 278
Location: Toppenish, Wa


PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

screw it, im tired of screwing with this damn car, when i save up a grand, which should be around august 1st, ima just have the whole damn fricken motor rebuilt, or just plainly fixed, the problem with just "fixing" it is i dont know if something else is about to go out
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Towed amaro, 2nd engine blown spent $1500 not spending more. Decided not worth it.
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aaron_sK
Member


Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You also might consider getting a second opinion on what exactly is wrong. Although I don't know how many mechanics you guys have out there.
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dude. welcome to owning an older car. things break. if you don't have the patiance to work on them yourself, or a wiligness to listen to a bunch of guys on the internet you have never met then ... i don't know. buy a civic.

as far as the crew goes... Oz has spoken: take it to a mechanic or two (2nd opinions = awsome) and find out fore SURE what is wrong with it, even if it means paying a little bit of cash for a proper diagnosis. then report back and go from there.

and if you want my advice:
if the bottom end is trash DO NOT WASTE 1000K rebuilding a 3.1 you can get a long block 3.4 NEW for 1400 (note: i would recomend spending more then that on anew block) or a good low mialage used one for 800, then we (as in myself and other dumbass crewbies who are willing to help you for no reason other then that we kick ass) will help you swap all the crap over. we can do it in 4 days tops. all you have to do is buy the block and the pizza/beer.

we did the engine in Alhasse's car in 4 days. 2 days with three people (none of whom had ever done an engine swap before) and then Al did the rest himself in two days. if we had 4 people i think we could do it much faster even without a lift. also, now you have atleast one experience pereson (me) plus perhaps a few people would come who were unable too last time (it being summer and all) and we could put some real muscle behind it.

a 3.4 swap is not for everyone, it is just less hard/expensive as a rebuild, but will get you better gains. to be honest i don't know why anyone rebuilds 2.8/3.1s in an fbody. it made sense for al since his car is geared for economy and not proformance, and it makes sensde for an old lady who loves her corsica too much to trade it in, but for you and i a 3.4 swap is the way to go if your 60* goes tits up.

we could also do headers at the same time if you want to save up some more dough, in an effort to make your claims of "performance exhaust" actualy mean somthing. Rolling Eyes and make your car less of a "rice ride" Laughing

anyway, i think i have made my point. when it comes down to it, you are spending YOUR money on YOUR car, so whatever you want to do is fine, but if you are realy trying to get some mild proformance out of a V6 platform while maintaining some fuel economy then i recomend you take my advice.

EDIT* upon reading the "2.8-3.4 swap boogie" written by KED85 on TGO i have come to a conlcusion:
the KEY is to get a COMPLETE well running 3.4 and spend some garage time before you even think about pulling your 2.8/3.1 resealing it (new mainseal etc..) and becoming familiar with it. this way, once you start the swap you will allready be familiar with it.

EDIT2* wow, an even better writeup by DALE on TGO, answers all the questions i had after reading karls writeup, which was realy more of a tipsheet.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/v6/339280-dales-3-4-swap.html
i am wanting to do this on the 2.8 just for fun... not realy though. Very Happy
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