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Car Problem =(
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"valvetrain" is gear head slang and abbreviation for all the moving parts in the cylandar head. the valves, rocker arms, pushrods and adjuster bolts. everything to do with opening and closing the valves except the camshaft. but typing all of that takes for ever, so we shorten it to "valvetrain".

just because you had "performance exhaust" installed does not mean there are no leaks. headers (i assume you have headers if you have "performance exhaust") have an amazing ability to rattle the bolts loose.

one thing i have noticed with the 2.8/3.1 platform is the damn EGR feed pipe comes loose from the exhaust maniflds and starts rattling. i owned my car for almost a year before i figured that one out. car sounded much better once i tightened it back down and replaced the gasket.

if you are runnig stock manifolds with a "performance exhaust" catback system (refers to exhaust that is from the catalytic converter back) then you will want to check around the exhaust manifold for leaks. the gasket GM installs at the factory is prety good. but after a while they can break down. my 2.8 (that i no longer drive) STILL has a small manifold leak.

i would also check around where the manifolds meet the "y"pipe. another place leaks can start.

to check for leaks start the car and open the hood. now BE CAREFUL, but put your hand as near to the joints i have described above and feel for "wind" coming out of the joints. if there are any leaks they should be easy enough to find. exhaust is hot however, so be carefull.

realisticaly even if you had open headers without a ypipe it would not realy cause the car to act as you are describing... i think it is probably a problem with the valves. since it is an intermittent problem.

good luck with your diagnosis and repair. don't give up on her yet.. these 60*V6 engines can take quite the many years of abuse. as long as you stay away from the power adders Wink then you will realy know what a broken rod will do Shocked

_________________
86' firebird (Junked in 2015). 88' GTA (sold in 2020).
aaron_sK wrote:
Hell, Tony drove his GTA to Cows a few years back with the pickup coil that came out in pieces.


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Danked
Banned


Joined: 10 May 2006
Posts: 278
Location: Toppenish, Wa


PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i can get power adders for this motor? o_O where, how much, what is it, i want to go faster!



but........... thats not the point of this thread, if u really care to tell me, just pm plz

and guys thanks for the help, if anyone ever needs something... im sure i can get it from the crackhead with the camaro down the road
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rjmcgee
The Hammer


Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 2328



PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Am I the onlt one who doesn't agree with tightenning the rocker nut until you can barely turn the pushrod. That will usually be too tight. You want to tighten the nut until you take the vertical play out of the pushrod, then a quarter or half turn more. At this setting the pushrod should still spin.
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aaron_sK
Member


Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tony - actually, the word "Valve train components" is the title of the chapter on page 2B-3 in the Haynes manual. Razz

Danked - If you think you're having problems with the top end now, just wait till you blow an old stock V6. Then you will know the true meaning of automotive problems.

rjmcgee - This is from the same Haynes manual (V6 section), page 2B-6 if you want to check it. It actually suggest tightening more than i remembered:

Quote:

a) Move the pushrod up-and-down and tighten the rocker arm nut until all clearance between the pushrod and rocker arm is removed.

b) Spin the pushrod between your thumb and index finger and slowly tighten the nut. When you just feel a slight resistance as the pushrod is rotated, stop tightening the nut - you've reached zero lash. Do not exert downawrd pressure with the tool used to tighten the nutas this will effect the adjustment.

c) After the point of zero lash is reached, tighten the nut 3/4-turn to complete the valve adjustment.



The rest of that section is on finding TDC so you can actually make the adjustment.
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)


Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rjmcgee wrote:
Am I the onlt one who doesn't agree with tightenning the rocker nut until you can barely turn the pushrod. That will usually be too tight. You want to tighten the nut until you take the vertical play out of the pushrod, then a quarter or half turn more. At this setting the pushrod should still spin.


Rodney... You tighten the nut down until you feel resistance from the rocker onto the pushrod.


Then go 1/4ish turn. There are 2 full turns of adjustment in the hydraulic lifter. So being too tight, is a long way off. Unless you've got an oil pump that will pump the lifter up too far.

Once you have the nut tightened the 1/4ish turn, the pushrod will only be able to turn.... is if the lifter plunger has bleed off some pressure. Otherwise it will not turn.
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rjmcgee
The Hammer


Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 2328



PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twilightoptics wrote:
2.8 and 3.1 heads are different.

If you have a bent pushrod just replace it.

You tighten down the rocker arm until the pushrod just barely turns, then 1/4 turn more.


Asdfga3 wrote:
Twilightoptics already explained it, and your manual will have a complete explanation.

Basically, you pull off the valve covers, and spin each pushrod with your fingers while tightenming the rocker arm itself. Tighten it till you can barely turn the rod, then tighten it a bit more (some engines are more/less, look it up in the manual, but I'm almost sure 1/4 turn is right).

Don't overtighten them or you'll wear out parts.

If that doesn't fix it, I'd try the timing and the exhaust next.


Big differance between slight resistance and barely turns.

Just my 2 cents. I prefer to set mine while its running.
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aaron_sK
Member


Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, but Haynes suggesting turning 3/4 of a turn after you fill said resistance, not 1/4. Ironically, if you did it both ways, it would probably come out about equal.
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Twilightoptics
Hardcore (12sec Club)


Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 9191
Location: Auburn , WA

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't like the haynes books.

Trouble is the perception. Sometimes I wasn't sure if it was actually zero lash or if it was just under... so I always went 1/4 + 1/8th turn and was always safe.

It's better to be a little loose, than too tight IMHO as I feel better. So some people say 1/4 some say 1/2.... the hydraulic picks up the slack... so I figure in the middle is golden.

Rod I can't check mine with the engine running for two reasons... one... I set lash to thousandths Cool and 2... even when I had hydraulic lifters, oil shot all over the engine bay!
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rjmcgee
The Hammer


Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Posts: 2328



PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hehe, my oil don't shoot all over the place. Nice to only have 10psi oil pressure at idle. Laughing Plus I took an old valve cover and cut the top out so it was even cleaner.
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Al Hasse
Member


Joined: 19 Nov 2005
Posts: 4379
Location: Bremerton, WA

1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rjmcgee wrote:
Hehe, my oil don't shoot all over the place. Nice to only have 10psi oil pressure at idle. Laughing Plus I took an old valve cover and cut the top out so it was even cleaner.


Great idea, my pressure is about the same, but I have to take the intake plenum off before I can remove the valve covers. To do that I have to undo some accessory brackets. Crying or Very sad
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Xophertony
Rodeo Queen


Joined: 13 Oct 2005
Posts: 5306
Location: Portland, Oregon.

1988 Pontiac GTA

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah... i forgot about that.
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