Cascade Crew

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 5:36 pm Post subject:

Unless he had the heads converted to screw in studs, he'll start pulling rocker arm studs.

If it back fires out the TBI then you're way lean on the firing order is off. Double check it carefully. We've all mixed up a wire or two before.

chevymad · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:17 pm Post subject:

What limit are you exceeding? If there's not enough room you could be bending the pushrods.. That too could be causing some backfire issues.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:44 pm Post subject:

Well from what I've gathered, stock Vortec heads can only accept up to about .460-.480 of lift, this cam has .507/.515 lift. He did have them machined for screw in studs but wouldnt he have needed the valve guide bosses machined down to get the extra clearance?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:09 pm Post subject:

Absolutely need the guides milled down. Also depends on your retainers how far down the valve can travel. I'd bet it's damn close if not already mashing the guides. And depending on the springs you got to go with the cam, that will tell you where coil bind is.

You guys researched what lift the heads can take and went with a bigger cam? LOL

DBL_TKE · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:21 pm Post subject:

I thought he already researched everything and did the necessary work to the heads After noticing valvetrain noise I began asking questions and doing my own homework. This weekend we're going to pull the valve covers and check for damage and take measurements. Some things that would be nice to know: static/dynamic compression ratio's, chamber volume, valve spring installed height, coil bind height, piston to valve clearance.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:08 pm Post subject:

You've got a long way before you guys are to worry about piston to valve clearance.

fiveoformula · Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 3:32 pm Post subject:

I did measure installed height, it seemed like it was ok, but not thinking, I measured it without the stem seal on, so I know that gets it closer. Im going to pull the valve covers and to see if I can actually see the retainer hit the valve guide boss with the valve all the way open. I will also double check my valve lash.

Red Bird · Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 2:44 am Post subject:

Any progress? how much hp you think you gained?

fiveoformula · Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 10:15 pm Post subject:

Well thought I would re-visit this thread to talk about some plans. The 305 runs pretty well, tune at WOT is damn near spot on, idles pretty well, stinky rich at idle. Runs 14.2 in the quarter @ 99mph (quite a tease not hitting 100mph) lol. Even gets an honest 20mpg on the highway, 13mpg city (better than my 4.0L jeep)
That all being said, it SMOKES! Cylinder # 3 and 2 spark plugs wear out very quickly with oil, reading the other plugs the fuel mixture seems pretty good.

So finally getting tired of driving easy in attempt to keep it from smoking other drivers out all the time I think I came up with a solution.
I bought an engine from a guy in Salem who said it was pulled for a "cam knock". I called BS from the begining... Skyler and I took the heads off and quickly found the #6 cylinder had no rod bearing left... lol
Anyways! I'm 50 bucks into this complete block with a bad crank. It is a 1999 350 block from a Tahoe, one piece rear main, roller cam, just NEEDS one rod, crank, rings and bearings.
This isn't my first choice as I've had my heart set on a 6.0 LS motor but since I can use my heads, cam, headers, exhaust, transmission and stock wiring harness and TBI with this gen I motor, it makes the most sense to hold me over until my budget gets bigger.
All that being said, I don't regret hopping up my 305! It was definetly a learning curve building it and surprising some people with it.

This commences my project "Budget no smoke tree-fiddy". Lol

This is what it looks like today...

91RSVert · Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:21 pm Post subject:

I dont think you could have went wrong for 50bux. I have no clue how much a crank cost, but I would think aslong as you go fairly stock, you should beable to get it back on the road cheap.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:31 pm Post subject:

Turn the crank

fiveoformula · Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:05 pm Post subject:

I really don't think its turnable by looking at it... it looks similar to a cam lobe, there was almost no rod bearing left.
New eagle crank I found is $189 dollars.

DBL_TKE · Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 11:49 pm Post subject:

Yeah that crank was toast. There's a good 1/8" offset groove where the bearing used to be, the rod just clunked around on it. Derek said it best, it looks like a cam lobe, lol. I scored a pair of Vortecs for $50 through this deal too. Still waiting to hear back from Charlie to see if they're usable or not.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:44 am Post subject:

That guy ran on it for a LONG time then.

I've just fixed a 6.5L Diesel GM that had a rod knock, in a school bus, driven for about 5 hours with no oil. Just one rod bearing in the pan, crank was able to be turned with emery cloth!

fiveoformula · Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:55 am Post subject:

Wow

need oversized bearings or anything?
Yeah I bet this vortec motor knocked like a b**ch, and from the looks of the sludge, they didnt like changing the oil.

fiveoformula · Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:20 am Post subject:

What do you guys think about re-using 1 stock rod? Or should I quit being cheap and buy a new set?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:59 am Post subject:

Just get one more used rod. It will have to be resized most likely so put arp in all.

fiveoformula · Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:23 pm Post subject:

I take it the machine shop can resize all the rods? How do would I know if they need it? should I make sure there all balanced?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:37 pm Post subject:

Shop resizes. Balance is on the crank. They can match th new rod to the weight od the others. You can have one light rod and the motor won't care. One heavy and it gets pissed off.

fiveoformula · Posted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 12:33 pm Post subject:

So with a brand new crank, I shouldnt have to get it balanced?