Cascade Crew

IROC-stangs · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:01 pm Post subject: brake problem

hi i was wondering if you all know what i need so i can have decent brakes again. ok i have a 87 iroc-z with which i belive its called j65 package ( 4wheel disk brakes) and they barely work at all it takes for ever to slow down. do i need just new rotors/pads? my calipers and my rotors are completly rusted out and do you think new rotos and pads would help? i dont need to stop on a dime but i need it to stop good so what do you guys think i need and what brands should i chose? thanks. also the brake pedal is not hard it just is really soft feeling and you have to push ALL the way down on the pedal for the car to finally stop

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:21 pm Post subject:

Had new but stock 4-wheel disks on my '87. Was never happy with it. Would have done an LS1 swap had I kept the car.

Just my two cents.

IROC-stangs · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:27 pm Post subject:

aaron_sK · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:35 pm Post subject:

Rears aren't the problem. They're just along for the ride, providing maybe 20% of the braking power.

It's the master, and fronts that cause crap brakes in Chebbies.

IROC-stangs · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:38 pm Post subject:

iansane · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:00 pm Post subject:

LS1s are definitely going to be better but it couldn't hurt to fix up what you have now. New calipers are only like $15 a piece or something? Calipers/rotors/pads/SS braided hoses and a GOOD fluid to flush out the lines and you'd probably already be at the limit of whatever tire you're using...

Although I can perfectly understand wanting to upgrade. Very Happy

Any brake swap is going to require about the same work. Taking spindles, chopping off the stock mounting ears, taping the dust holes, bolt on new adapter bracket, turn stock rotors down until it's just a hub and bolt everything back together.

IROC-stangs · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:39 pm Post subject:

Al Hasse · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:45 pm Post subject:

You might do better at the junkyard, but I got my LS1 rear brakes off e-Bay for $200. Almost everything I needed, except pads. The kit comes with backing plates, rotors, calipers, flex lines and rear cables with brackets. I already had a disc rear on the car, so that made things a bit easier.

IROC-stangs · Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 11:45 pm Post subject:

Al Hasse · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 5:16 am Post subject:

Just the brakes. They pretty much bolt up to the 3rd gen disc brake axle housing. Only real mod required would be to the parking brake, I took the handle, front cable and tunnel bracket from a 4th gen car to make mine work. I also had some braided lines fabricated, though some say this isn't necessary.

You can check out my swap here...

http://cascadecrew.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5869&highlight=rear

IROC-stangs · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:28 am Post subject:

IROC-stangs · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:43 am Post subject:

Quasi-Traction · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:05 am Post subject:

IROC-stangs · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:29 am Post subject:

alloy · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:05 pm Post subject:

You can "rent" a vacuum brake bleeder from Schucks. You pay the full price of the kit, but when you bring it back you get all your $$$ back. It's their loan a tool program.

IROC-stangs · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:07 pm Post subject:

alloy · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:14 pm Post subject:

First I'd use a turkey baster and get all the old fluid out of the master cylinder, and then clean it out with a lint free cloth. The add new fluid. Check often to make sure you have not run out of fluid when bleeding. If you do you will have to start over again.

Clean off the brake bleeders and then loosen them one at a time. then attach the vacuum bleeder to the fitting and pump it. I'd get the little container of the bleeder about half full and then check the master, and then move on to the next one. Do the right rear first, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. You go from the furthest wheel to the shortest one from the master.

IROC-stangs · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:28 pm Post subject:

IROC-stangs · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:35 pm Post subject:

also for brakes in the future is there any other brakes that will fit that are better then ls1 f-body brakes? are c5/c6 z06 brakes better?

alloy · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 2:50 pm Post subject:

The point of bleeding is to make sure all the air is out of the system. Air is compressible, brake fluid isn't.

There are several different upgrade to the front brakes now. 1LE's, LS1's, C4/C5, The 13" wilwood kit that I designed and built, and I think john has a set of 14" fronts if I'm not mistaken. The bigger you go the more $$$ they cost.

Here is what my front setup looks like. The difference it amazing with these brakes. I drive Daisy and she kinds scares me with the stock brakes since I'm so use to my car.