Cascade Crew

aaron_sK

So before I ruin the Merc engine I figured I would run cam break-in procedure by Paul, Brandon, and the rest of the builders:

I have maybe 3/4 of a bottle of EOS left (the rest I poured over the rockers before I installed the valve covers. My current plan is to dump that in along with about 5 1/2 quarts of Valvoline VR1 30W, run it for 20-30 mins at 2K, then dump the oil and run another bottle of EOS and the rest VR1. Run that hard for about 500 miles to seat the rings, then dump it again.

At that point would I do better to switch to 20W50, or stick with the 30W? I'm not really planning on running synthetic until it's well and broken in.

Anything I'm missing, or is that about it?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:02 pm Post subject:

20w50 sounds a little thick.

If it's a new motor 10w30 would do just fine. Run EOS or similar with EVERY oil change.

When breaking in you want to vary your RPM between 1700-2300. Don't just leave it for 25min at a single rpm.

You don't have to drive the piss out of it, but don't baby it.

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:12 pm Post subject:

Got it. Thanks Paul.

One last thing though: Is Valvoline VR1 any better to use for cam break ins? Two engine builders recommended I use it over normal racing oil, but I want to make sure.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:14 pm Post subject:

Be careful because alot of racing oil IS synthetic.

I just used the Delo 400 15W40 for my cam breakin. With a bottle of Crane Cam Lube.

I haven't set lash since I broke it in and set it after the break in. 500 miles later the injectors are still louder than the valve train and that's with a solid lifter cam. So I figure it's doing it's job in the lube department. Thumbs up

I don't like how thin the Delo gets at a hot idle. Think I'm going to try like some Dino Castrol or something with the next oil change. (synthetic just makes bigger spots on the garage floor.) Rolling Eyes

aaron_sK · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:35 am Post subject:

For some reason I had it stuck in my head that you want to run single weight for a breakin, but if Delo works, then that's what I'll run. Cheaper than racing oil anyway. Very Happy

91RSVert · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:26 pm Post subject:

You need to find an oil that still has a high zinc content. The new EPA regulations that limit the amount of zinc is whats been damaging the flat cams lately.

I add a bottle of the STP oil treatment in every oil change because it still has alot of zinc in it.

blue89 · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:55 pm Post subject:

i did the same thing with my boat. The guy i bought it from said he never changed the oil, not in the 20+ years he's had it Shocked

So when i did it this summer I added some STP oil goop just to try to keep it running.

Twilightoptics · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:17 pm Post subject:

If you run the GM EOS, or the Crane Cam lube you can use whatever oil you want. It has more than enough additives for any oil.

The RED STP 4 cyl engine treatment HAD the additives in it, but recent Blackstone Labs testing via Team Chevelle members has proven it to be WELL BELOW neccessary levels of ZDDP(Zn & P).

chevymad · Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:19 pm Post subject:

Was just going to mention same thing about the STP.. 4 years ago it was awesome.. The stuff tested in the last year has virtually no ZDDP. So STP is now worthless as an antiwear additive. Paul has the right idea on additives and oils. Their is a difference between the VR1 and the valvoline NSL race oils as well. The regular VR1 has a low additive level as well now. Valvoline says it doesnt but several tests done by 2 different labs throughout last year all come out below minimum level on the VR1.

91RSVert · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject:

chevymad · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:07 pm Post subject:

STP in blue bottle tested low to begin with.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 11:04 am Post subject:

Brandon, isn't blue-bottle STP basicaly just molasses designed to Mickey Mouse "fix" bad rings and blowby?

chevymad · Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 11:21 am Post subject:

It used to have some zddp.. not near as much as red bottle. It's almost all plasticizer like you say. Just thickens the oil.

fiveoformula · Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:00 pm Post subject:

I was told that you can tell if certain oils still contain the extra zinc by the API rating on the back of the bottle... SM being the lowered zddp, and SL being ok.
is this true?

Twilightoptics · Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 6:47 am Post subject:

The old rating (forget which, SL if you're right) is no longer produced.

fiveoformula · Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 12:21 pm Post subject:

Well SL is still being produced, it's on Chevron Delo and I noticed it's on a few other brands.
Pennzoil & Quakerstate (10W-40 and thicker)
Castrol "Start up" all wieghts.
Valvoline VR1 (20W-50 & 30W)
I was thinking these may be an alternative...
If it is indeed "SL" that has exceptable zinc levels.

alloy · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 4:21 pm Post subject:

I brought this post back from the dead because I heard about a new break in oil from Royal Purple with ZDDP in it. It's supposed to have about 1800ppm zinc in it.

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html