Cascade Crew

['92 camaro boss]

Ok, so i had the worst day 2 day's ago... first thing at 7 in the morning, driving on the highway and my t top started shaking, as soon as i started to slow down to check it, whooooshhh flew off.. then, i go get what's left of it off the road, and i drive a few more miles... car runs outta gas (gas gauge doesnt work, can't afford a sending unit) then my car dies litterally right down the road from the gas station.. road was too busy to push it, so one thing lead to another, i got gas in the car.. then i tired starting it.. wouldn't idle or give a steady amount of gas flow, so i had it towed home.. now i'm left with a car with a broken t top and not running
my questions are..

1. i got a glass t top (old were lexan) the glass one fits in there.. but it leaves a bit of a gap on the front part.. is there anyway to adjust it?

2. i changed my fuel filter and still the car runs like crap.. should i spring for the money for a new one..

3. does anyone know a cheap place to get a sending unit so this doesn't happen again? chevy garage wants $600

[91RSVert]

1. I know the pins on t-tops are different. Theres a small and a large. There are adjustments out by the latches. You gotta take the piller panel down to get access. IIRC there was one on the rear, forget how to get access to it.

2. You likely sucked up debris and some of it is in the pump, lines, injectors, anywhere along the system. How is your fuel pressure?

3. Sorry, dont. And any junkyard parts one is bound to be "off". You might beable to get the part number and order from gmpartsdirect and save a little bit of cash. But your spending days waiting on shipping.... which may be ok if you have another ride you can use.

[Al Hasse]

It's possible if the pins on your new top are different to remove the hardware from the old broken one and transfer it to your new one.

Adjustment isn't that difficult, but you need to remove the plastic from the A-Pillar and from the and from the C-Pillar, might also be called B-Pillar (behind the window on the sail panel). The holes that receive the pins are then accessible and so are their adjustment screws.

[Quasi-Traction]

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=2003308&Description=Fuel+Tank+Sending+Unit

That's what NAPA has listed as the fuel pump sending unit. Only with the "FPH" fuel pump harness code (check a factory or Haynes wiring diagram for that) $190 for the sender.


you may have to replace the in-tank pump too. I'm not 100% sure about that. someone who knows more about the MPFI on the V6's could tell you.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BSH&PartNumber=N69222&Description=Fuel+Pump+-+Electric+In-Tank+Type

Hope this helps.

[blue89]

that sucks man. Always keep those things locked when they are on! I've never tried, but you'll probably want to swap your lock tumblers when you get the new one. There are 3 types of ttop lock pins. Make sure you get the same type and you'll be good. Lexan I believe uses its own pin type. It would save weight but I like the glass ones way better. The lexan bow kinda funny.

Ask Kurfbird for parts as he has a few and might have a good sender. Its a resistor so it would be easy to check it before you buy a used unit. He also has ttops laying around and might have one for you cheap.

As suggested, check your fuel pressure. The reason why its so expensive for labor is you have to pull the fuel tank which is not fun work and takes a long time. You may also want to reset your computer by disconnecting your battery for 30 seconds. You may have all sorts of weird codes set. I can image running out of gas would throw the computer for a loop.

If you need advice on anything just ask. Xophertony and myself are knowledgable in the V6 area.