Cascade Crew

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:37 am Post subject: how do i change out my U-joints?

like i said. I got new ones but am not sure the best way to start this project.

thanks,

~JAKE

Mangus

83Z28BlackBetty

Mangus

82camaro383 · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:17 am Post subject:

If you are still using the factory u-joint, you have to heat them with a torch to remove them from the driveline. I had to change mine a week ago.

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

Mangus · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 11:42 am Post subject:

Oops, yeah, as the others pointed out, there is a little bit of coersion involved.

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:14 pm Post subject:

Mangus · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:38 pm Post subject:

izcain · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 4:34 pm Post subject:

You'll want to put a scribe mark in one side of the pinion and drive line to give you a reference point since some drive lines were a balanced fit. It is a good habit to make even if the drive line is perfectly balanced occasionally you will come across some that aren't.

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

Twilightoptics · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:48 pm Post subject:

Take it to a driveline shop. Period.

It will need a balance. You can't get our style in there perfect to have it like factory. Sometimes you can get lucky.

If it was the clip style like the 60's 70's era then yeah you can do it yourself just fine.

Brandon has experiance with the lack of balance too!

Driveline shop I've been too is very reasonable. U-joints are a headache to do yourself anyway.

chevymad · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:05 pm Post subject:

GM didnt bother machining our yokes true. They used a jig that held the driveline straight then pushed the u-joint in centered. The plastic was then injected to hold the u-joint in that position. Sometimes when you put a replacement joint in you'll get offcenter, because the joint is now centered with the clips on the inside of the yoke. Mine is this way. Get over 85 and things get rough. Wasnt this way before changing the u-joints. I got a nice chromemoly shaft to put in to cure this.. too bad its 2" too long at hte moment.

Sellmanb · Member Joined: 30 Nov 2004 Posts: 727 Location: Tigard, OR

For the cost of a driveline shop (and having to drive to the shop if there's none near you) you could get an aluminum LS1 driveshaft for roughly the same price (I'd seen them about a year ago going for ~85 dollars). May be a better way to go, less headache, more go-fast Wink

Xophertony

Mangus

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:12 pm Post subject:

I went through 2 aluminum drivelines before I found one that wasn't bent. No driveline shop in the Vancouver/Portland area can UN-bend aluminum drivelines. You don't even want to know what it costs to have a new tube welded on around here. Might as well buy a carbon fiber.... or two.

So unless you're lucky, an aluminum is not necessarily the way to go. I never noticed a single bit of difference putting one on, plus it's bigger and in the way. When I go with the 9" I'm sure I'll shred this one, and be getting a steel driveline with larger joints in the back.

alloy · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 4:18 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:14 pm Post subject:

Not sure about factory but I know some driveline shops down here balance at different rpms. I know one balances at 500rpm while another is over 3000rpm. Figure 4th gear is 1:1 so your driveline is turning at the rpm you're running.

83Z28BlackBetty · Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 7:19 am Post subject:

Got em changed out yesterday, much more of a pain than I thought. I ended up beating the sh*t out them to get em out! turns out that wasn't the knocking I've been hearing all along Sad

oh well, at least I know I have good U-joints now.

BTW, one of em is a bit squeaky... Confused

is it cuz i zerked in too much grease? or not enough? I hope I'm not killing my new u-joint.

~JAKE