Cascade Crew Forum Index Cascade Crew
Message Forums
 
 GarageGarage   1/4 Mile Table1/4 Mile Table   FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Paint Removal

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Cascade Crew Forum Index -> Garage
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
blue89
Member


Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 3482
Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:43 am    Post subject: Paint Removal Reply with quote

With all the new paintjobs being done, I figured I'd ask. What is the best way to remove paint? I'm prepared to spend countless hours sanding everything with a palm sander like I did last time, but I don't want to if there is something more efficient.

I dont have compressed air, only electric. I've tried chemicals, but they always seem to be more of a mess than anything. Thanks!

_________________
E30
86 RS - 7.4L V8 SOLD
89 RS - 3.25L V6 REMOVED
89 RS - 5.7L LT1 SOLD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
TecherB
Princess B


Joined: 14 Jan 2004
Posts: 390
Location: Some place between gresham and portland


PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

brake fluid will take any paint off Very Happy .....



I do believe their are other chemicals that you can use dont know any off the top of my head though. Sand blasting (media blasting) take it off but on a car with glass on it you can damage the glass.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
blue89
Member


Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 3482
Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought about that too. Media blasting would take the better part of an afternoon, but how do you mask and prep an entire car for it? That might be a good option for doing the hood, fender, nose, gfx, and tail. I might get stuck sanding the rear quarters by hand.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
83Z28BlackBetty
Bam-Ba-Lam


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 2083
Location: Aloha

1983 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used a DA sander with 220 grit sanding discs for a few hours just to knock it down at first. then i spent days with a sanding block by hand. but i had plenty of bondo work to do Razz

Chemicals are a big mess/ can be more trouble then they are worth. they don't get all the baked on paint and leaves you sanding the rest of the spots. I used them on my old triumph when i restored it a few years ago and decided to just sand when i redid the camaro this summer. But when i did use it i used some stuff called "Aircraft Stripper" BE CAREFUL WITH IT! I have a scar on my arm where i got some on me and it ate the skin right off in a matter of minutes! Use gloves!

Remember, you don't have to bring it down to bare metal. just knock down the top layers till you get a fresh smooth surface that paint can stick to. unless the paint is chipping or cracking. my roof was like that so i had to bring it down to metal.

As far as the plastic bumper pieces, PITA!!! I ended up sanding them down to the plastic to get rid of the spiderweb cracks. if you have them im sorry! you have to sand those areas down to the plastic to get rid if them. i didn't at first and they ended up coming through and cracking my primer.

Be sure not to bend or flex the plastics once they've been painted or you will be very sorry. thats why i painted mine on the car. i just didn't have them bolted up tight.

thats my bits of advice, besides that just be patient. its not worth it to rush things or cut corners, you'll regret it in a few months. if you have any other questions let me know, i'd love to help

~JAKE

_________________
1983 Z-28 5.7 LT1, T56, Headman headers, BW 9 Bolt Posi Disc, WS6 suspension
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website AIM Address
blue89
Member


Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 3482
Location: Bellingham/Eugene

1986 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'd love to help? Well come grab a sander then! Lol! J/k.

Did the DA knock it down to the primer relatively fast? You said a few hours. I don't think I have to repaint the entire car if I can get it down to the primer.

_________________
E30
86 RS - 7.4L V8 SOLD
89 RS - 3.25L V6 REMOVED
89 RS - 5.7L LT1 SOLD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
83Z28BlackBetty
Bam-Ba-Lam


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 2083
Location: Aloha

1983 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i meant advise Embarassed but as for the Dual Action sander, the problem with only doing parts of the car with the sander is it takes it down relatively quickly and it leaves a height difference between where you have used the sander and where you haven't. but if you did whole chunks this wouldn't be as big a problem, ie: whole door, hood, or if you choose to do the rear quarter panel REMEMBER TO FEATHER! use a long block sander (longer the better 10in is great!) over the seam where you used the sander and where you haven't. this will alleviate the problem of paint thickness.

Also, use a finer grit sanding disc, 220 is what i recommend and avoid using lots of pressure, allow the sander to do the work, another important thing, don't allow the sanding wheel to spin up, this will tear a hole down to bare metal and create a great source of frustration.

~JAKE

_________________
1983 Z-28 5.7 LT1, T56, Headman headers, BW 9 Bolt Posi Disc, WS6 suspension
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website AIM Address
chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything I have tried is slow. I've done the da method, chemicals, blasting etc. Blasting is slow unless you have a large compressor and blaster. Chemicals work but really are a pain. If you don't need to take it to metal use the da. If you do want to go to metal i've been using a 3M paint removal wheel. It's fairly slow but faster then all the other methods. It just fits in a drill. It also comes in different sizes. I bought 2 thinking it wouldnt last long.. but they do last quite awhile. On my truck cab I tried using a big grinder with 36grit sanding disc... all it did was melt hte paint and ruin the disc. So then I tried the 3m thing and it buffed the paint right off.

If you're anywhere close to a profesional media blaster.. one who knows how to do car bodies without ruining them, it's probably worth the money they'd charge to just have it done.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
90droptoproc
Member


Joined: 25 Jan 2005
Posts: 490


1989 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and if you get them to use soda, you can leave the glass in
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Cascade Crew Forum Index -> Garage All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group