Cascade Crew

[91RSVert]

So, I'm sure my trans is toast, or clutch, or both. Lots of vibrations, grinding, hard to put in gear, wont keep fluid, and last I had it out you could wiggle the input shaft like a paint stick in a 5gal bucket.

So what all do I need to aquire?
Trans
shifter(what to use since pro5.0 is gone?? Can I modify my t5 one?)
cross member (I have spohn tq arm, so get another, or make one since I have a welder now)
clutch n pressure plate
throwout
bell housing

what about
hydraulics
flywheel
driveshaft????

[aaron_sK]

[iansane]

[aaron_sK]

LS1 shaft is a bit shorter than a thirdgen IIRC.

[Twilightoptics]

I've posted the best t56 method many times. Too much pita to find it on my phone. Basically since you have a manual already.

Ls1 t56 w/ shifter
Quick move of shifter stick with some metal to center it in the console.
Mcleod adapter
Mcleod pilot
T56 cross member
Shortened driveshaft.



That's it

Period.for.your swap. Don't do hybrid crap.

[aaron_sK]

[Twilightoptics]

The LT1 uses a pull style clutch which is a known issue as well. There is a reason they changed it after just a few years.






I saw hybrid and remembered reading about some yahoos trying to literally make a t5-t56 trans hybrid. I didn't read closely enough.


I don't consider my way a hybrid really. GM got lazy and we can reap the benefits by not replacing EVERYTHING lol.

[91RSVert]

Is the lt1 style still use a gear on the speedometer inside the trans? I know the ls1 uses a reluctor ring.

Also, isnt the gearing slightly different?

[iansane]

I know there was a gear change from '93 to the rest and I *think* there was a change in '98 but I'm not sure. All t56s use the reluctor ring unless they've been modified.

[91RSVert]

oh, twilight. So what do I do for a clutch system your way, use the ls1 type? Does it connect real easy to the 3rd gen peddle?


How much shorter on the DS?

[iansane]

As far as I know, when doing the LS1 trans and adapter plate you retain your thirdgen clutch assembly, fork, hydraulics, etc.

[Twilightoptics]

This is the setup I used, and why it's so great when you already have a manual car. I converted my auto car to a manual.


As Ian stated, you retain the ENTIRE clutch system from the T5 Thirdgen setup.

Clutch-Flywheel-bellhousing-fork-hydraulics-pedal etc everything.

Infact, when you remove the T5 for this swap...... Your following proceedure is:

Remove the bellhousing and clutch, and pilot to install the extended mcleod brass pilot bushing, and reinstall all removed components.

Then you bolt the Mcleod Adapter plate on to the bellhousing.





The LS1 trans doesn't use a fork/throw out bearing as you think of it. It uses a slave/throw out bearing that's mounted to the trans. So when you use the trans in a thirdgen setup, the mcleod adapter plate has a T5 bearing retainer bolted to it, to run the clutch throw out bearing native to the Thirdgen, etc. The trans just slides through and bolts to the adapter plate. Then it's your job, or spohns, to give it a cross member, and torque arm mount.


If you're savy with a welder, I built a cross member, and used my old th350 b&m torque arm bracket to mounted the TA to the cross member. Then I upgraded and built a spohn style TA when I swapped in a Ford 9" rear.


The easiest way should be for you to get the Spohn Crossmember/TA setup. This is the biggest strange cost you'll encure, but you'll get a bad ass TA out of the deal too if you can't build on your own.

Make sure you talk to them and let them know you have a LS1 trans.






Now I cannot confirm if a 4th gen ls1 TA mount on the trans will work because I wanted the TA off the trans because of the physics.

The beauty is that the clutch/flywheel assembly is straight thirdgen and over the course of a daily driver, it's WAY cheaper in the long run than the $300+ flywheel for in my case a 2pc rear main seal, the unreliability of the pull style clutch, and that the LT1 style clutch is twice the cost of any thirdgen specific clutch.




Hope this clears a few things up.

[91RSVert]

I already have the spohn TA

I would think shortening the DS would be the most expensive.

[Twilightoptics]

That normally runs about $100- $200. You can buy a Strange unit in chromoly with yoke and new joints for a little more too. Lengthening is what Costs.

When the shorten its just one end they work over then balance.

[91RSVert]

I have an alumn, I was looking at going to a CF. Its not like I'm pushing gobs of power.

Also, is that adapter alumn, or steel. I see conflicting info on summit. Since I can heliarc alumn, I'm wondering if I could adapt it onto the bell, and not have to shorten my DS, or run the long bushing.

[Twilightoptics]

The driveline shortening is because the trans is physically longer than a t5 by inches, not just the 1/2" adapter plate. It has to be done.

CF drivelines scare me.

Calling it Heliarc also scares me. LOL


The adapter is steel, and it's proper thickness. If you push the trans farther in, I don't know if the splines will be long enough. They should be.

Way more work than necessary plus less serviceability.

[91RSVert]

running adapters and shortening my DS scares me.

So rough guess, its going to cost me just between 2-3k to put a t56 in?
1500 trans
200 adapter
?? bushing
120+ crossmember
175+ shifter
?? driveshaft
?? clutch/pp
?? flywheel (mine is bad)


I also keep a stock clutch setup, which is part of whats bad. Whats a good clutch/pp. This is my 3rd OTC clutch thats went out.

[aaron_sK]

[91RSVert]

I ran adapters on my wheels on my s10, never could keep them tight. I know this is "different" but still dislike it.

As for the DS, I dont know of any decent place to have it done locally. Every time Ive taken my shizzle to a shop, I get piss poor quailty, or not done in the timespan I was told. If it will take a month, fine, tell me. But dont tell me a week, and it takes a month.

[Twilightoptics]