Cascade Crew

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

I finally got a gas tank from my nieghbor. It has the carb pick up in it. My question is what all can be/should I replace on it? Strainer? Also thier is a black electrical box thing at top where one of the gas lines go into it. What is that. It looms kindof nasty. Can it be replaced? I also assume gasket. What else,shoukd I address on a car this old whe tank is out and rear end is dropped. I would like to address as maby small things as my budget allows.

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

So aftet,opening little black box, has nothing to do with electrical. Has some wierd little float or something in it

aaron_sK · Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:25 pm Post subject:

Are you talking about the resistor the level float attaches to?

Get a new strainer.

Buy a GM tank gasket at a dealer. Don't use a parts store gasket. It will cost about $17 but the parts store ones do not fit right.

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

It,may,be a resitor. It looks lije,a,metal,mushroom or,something. Also when I go to parts store how do I word to, them,how to order strainer

iansane · Posted: Sat May 19, 2012 3:56 pm Post subject:

Most counter jockeys should know what a strainer is. Only other thing I've ever heard it called was an in tank filter.

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

Also is there a triwd and true method to clean tank and lines?

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

So I am going to drop rear to add pit in tank. First, some of the lines are kindpf funky. Is there a good method or product to clean them. Also the po hacked up the rear for a fuel pump access. Does anybody know where to find a decent door to pit in or should I just panel bond it from underneath? And finally tips and tricks to do fuel lines correctly?

aaron_sK · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 5:32 pm Post subject:

Lines are funky how? Like worse than you can just blow out with compressed air?

I would weld a panel in while the tank is out. No idea why people put in doors. Dropping the tank is not a difficult job, I have done it many times.

No tricks to the lines. There are four of them, three are size specific and one of them dead-ends like a foot away. I have seen them screwed up but every time it's been because someone hacked in a door and chopped the lines all to hell.

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

Mine are hacked up also with rubber hoses and hose clamps. So I was wondering if better way to do it. I also figure beings I have a mechanical pump I don't need the hole, bit beings I don't weld panel bond seems like a good solution. And as fae and funky, it like a brown poopy sludge. Not in all lines. Just one. But untill I compare it to other lines and where they go , I don't know which line it is.

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

Also beings I am romoving rear I assume I have to undo brakes ans they wi ll need to be bled. They are drums and from what I am reading they are a pain in the ass. Is that correct?

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

And lastly does anybody have a suggestion or seen a way to make the fuel line routing look better. They come from tank on drivers side and then to get them to mechanical pump I have rubber hose crossing over top of water pump and it looks like crap.

turbo_jimi · Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:11 pm Post subject:

I don't think you need to remove the brake lines. They are attached to the rear end and you shouldn't have to remove that completely to remove the gas tank. As far as bleeding, it should be any harder than bleeding disc. Just a pain either way in my opinion...lol!

turbo_jimi · Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:13 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:16 pm Post subject:

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

Yeah. I was planning on painting and cleaning up rear while I have it out. I Amy just try and upgrade to discs I guess if I am going this far. And as far as lines, I was reading that carbed cars have the lines on passenger side, so I will try and find one I can take lines off of or try and find a kit

turbo_jimi · Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 1:08 pm Post subject:

Twilightoptics · Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 1:27 pm Post subject:

Same deal. But the diff has to be well out of the way on a thirdgen to get the tank physically out. so you have to disconnect the one brake softline.

aaron_sK · Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:08 pm Post subject:

What the heck, Paul? I have never had to crack the brake lines on a thirdgen. That's just craziness. Just unbolt the first couple clips holding the line to the car to get a little give and you're golden. Then just unbolt the ends of the swaybar, one end of the panhard and swing the diff down. Easy money.

Factory carb cars still go up the drivers side, but the metal hardline crosses over in the transmission tunnel.

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

I am also replacing lca and panhard with some spohn ones I got off craigist. Also what's difficulty of just rerouting new lines and cost involved?

jchaussee · Member Joined: 14 Nov 2010 Posts: 1318 Location: renton

Also I am running the return line because my pump has provision for it. But many do not. Is it best to rub return.?