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trailer/truck light problem
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91RSVert
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Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 2736
Location: AR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:14 pm    Post subject: trailer/truck light problem Reply with quote

ok, so when ever we hook my car hauler up to my 1ton, it dims the lights on the truck? When ever we hook it to my friends 3/4ton, the trailer has no taillights, but has brake/turn? What is going on?

Details:
20ft hauler
Full LED lights, tails, 4 side marker, 4 lp lights, tripple clearance bar.
7pin plug
4 tire brakes
constant power pin is wired to a battery for the removeable winch.

1997 chevy 1ton
7pin plug is added on(not factory)
brand new super fancy bj model brake controller.
power pin is ran to fuse box under hood with 30amp fuse.

2005 dodge 3/4ton
7pin plug is factory installed.
basic run of mill brake controller.
no wire connected for battery/winch combo.

_________________
2008 GMC Z71
1991 Camaro RS Vert
1972 Jimmy 4x4
20ft Longhorn Car Hauler
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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 5476


1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are at least 3 different correct versions of the 7 pin connector. Newer cars like your buds usually have a different pattern then everyone used to use. All 3 use the same plug in.
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91RSVert
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Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 2736
Location: AR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It worked before. This just started a few weeks ago. So i would suspect we have the correct version on all 3.
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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then its time to take things apart and take a look.
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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
Posts: 3942
Location: Peoria, IL

1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There aren't many wires on a trailer. Just start checking circuits one at a time for problems. Check the pinouts on the trailer connector and make sure the pinouts on trucks are same.
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

91RSVert wrote:
It worked before. This just started a few weeks ago.


This is purely speculation on my part but I would look for a loose connection or short in the tails that would cause the current draw to be raised above normal only when they are on.
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91RSVert
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Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 2736
Location: AR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wires where the lights hook up are soldered. The only ones that should come loose are up in the plug. Friend claims he took that apart to check it and all are tight.

Guess its time to start unsoldering each light?
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aaron_sK
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Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or you could just check the resistance... if there is a multimeter anywhere in the state of Arkansas. Razz
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91RSVert
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Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 2736
Location: AR

1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS

PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive got about 4 in my house. Laughing

But being their all connected. How do I check 1 light to see which one is the trouble spot?
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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Peoria, IL

1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You said the truck headlights are dimming down when you hook up the trailer? That's a tell-tale sign that system voltage is being pulled down by a high current draw. Could be an electrical short to ground somewhere on the trailer.

I've never done anything with trailer wiring but this is how I might break down the problem.

- Make sure the trailer connector has the correct pin locations for the wiring of receptacle on your truck. Just because it appeared things worked earlier doesn't mean everything worked properly. There's just no sense in troubleshooting the whole trailer wiring without knowing for sure that the pinouts are correct.

- Remove all the light bulbs from trailer and check for resistance between the B+ lighting leads in the 7-pin plug and a bare metal spot on the trailer frame. If you get conductivity then there is a short to ground somewhere in your lighting wiring on the B+ side. (Don't test the ground wire for a short to ground.... Laughing ) You can isolate a short with a clamp-on ammeter by measuring current draw to each leg of wiring. The leg with high current draw is the leg with a short circuit. At that point you just need to use your eyes and hands to find an area with damaged wire and fix it.

Check the health of battery inside the emergency break-away box. If that battery has shorted cells then it can pull a lot of current off the charge circuit. Replace battery if necessary. Make sure the emergency pull cord is in the "ready" position and hasn't been pulled.

If that doesn't yield anything then all that's left is the electric brakes.

An alternative to quickly finding which circuit is the problem is to use the clamp-on ammeter on the truck side of wiring near the connector. The wire with excessively high current is the same circuit on trailer with the electrical short. This only works if you're willing to put power to everything again and fuses aren't blowing or wires melting on the truck side.
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

QwkTrip wrote:
high current draw ... electrical short to ground


Had you beat on that one by two days, Jon. Razz

I'm a simple drunk Pollack, but I wouldn't bother plugging it into the truck or buying any fancy clip-on anything. Just use a spare battery and the DC amp function on the multimeter. Shrug
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chevymad
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Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trailer works differently on 2 different trucks. Therefore there is a wiring problem on one of the trucks.

Find the draw issue as previously explained.
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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Peoria, IL

1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not a competition, Aaron. Quit trying to make it one. You're a smart guy and repairing cars is one of your talents. You don't see my talents because those subjects are never a topic of discussion at this site.

Using a spare battery is a good idea. But you'll blow the fuse on the multimeter if you try to measure shorted current.


Last edited by QwkTrip on Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:00 am; edited 2 times in total
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chevymad
Master B


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
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1987 Pontiac Formula

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test light works great for finding a short. Remove all the bulbs on the circuit and hook the test light between the positive of the battery and the circuit to be tested. If its shorted the test light will light. Simply disconnect at any splice or cut wire until the short is found.
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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Peoria, IL

1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you ever tried those tools that you just pass by the wire to detect location of shorts? Curious if they really work worth beans?
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chevymad wrote:
Trailer works differently on 2 different trucks. Therefore there is a wiring problem on one of the trucks.


I wouldn't bet entirely on that, B. The trucks could be responding to an issue on the trailer differently. Say the trailer has an arcing connection in the tail circuit. The Dodge has a breaker in the trailer light circuit, and the Chevy is run straight to the battery. Dodge circuit trips then resets when the trailer is off, Chevy goes dim from overload. Not saying that's it, just pointing out that it could very well be only a trailer issue.

QwkTrip wrote:
It's not a competition, Aaron. Quit trying to make it one.


Wasn't trying to, Jon. Thus the Razz smiley.

QwkTrip wrote:
Have you ever tried those tools that you just pass by the wire to detect current? Curious if they really work worth beans?


Fluke stick? How would that help him?
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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Peoria, IL

1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what the tool is called. I just remember seeing something in a catalog a long time ago that looked like a wand that is passed close to the wire loom and gives off an audible signal when it passes over a shorted area of wire. Just curious if anybody has ever used one and if it's worth a darn or just hype?

Last edited by QwkTrip on Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
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1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh... I see now you edited to clarify your post. I have seen what you are describing before, but have never used one personally.
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QwkTrip
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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1989 Pontiac Firebird

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can type 200 words per minute by I have to backspace over 190 of those words.
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aaron_sK
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Posts: 8834
Location: Back in beautiful Tacompton

1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LMAO

Nice. I seem to often have the same problem. In fact I did it twice just typing this alone.
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